Here’s your all-in guide to turbochargers. For a lot of the older folks that were used to a big capacity, naturally aspirated diesel (think the old 2H donk from the 40 Series ‘Cruisers), a turbo was a bit of a gimmick, that sure, gave you a bit more get-up-and-go, but in their early days, were prone to cause pistons to melt and blow up engines. You could tow a 30-foot van up Mooney-Mooney hill with the right foot planted in fifth-gear and never have to worry in a 2H (and only down change cause she was down to 50 Km/h). Then there was the turbocharged 12H-T in the 60 Series, that if you did the same thing, exhaust temps would skyrocket, and if it was even slightly over-fuelling, you’d melt or crack a piston, and be up for a complete rebuild. Those days are long gone, with common-rail systems being the norm. More sensors than you can poke a stick at, and usually a pretty conservative tune from the factory, to stop folks blowing them up.

Despite the change in fuel systems, turbos had stayed relatively unchanged for a long time. Just the single turbo setup, with a wastegate keeping your boost pressures in check and that, was that. Now, with a better understanding of how boost will affect a diesel engine and progresses in technology, things have changed quite a bit.

There are different types of turbos, different ways of them to stop over-boosting, different modifications you can make to them, and different ways to mount more than one turbo. In this guide, we go through some of the different setups, how they work, and what options you have on the new (and some old) turbocharger equipped diesel 4X4s.

The Basics: How a turbo works

The long and the short of it is a turbo works by generating pressure (boost) that gets forced into the engine. The essential components of a turbo, are a pair of impellers with housings (turbine & compressor) joined by a shaft, and a wastegate that regulates the amount of boost generated.

Exhaust gas drives the turbine which in turn spins the compressor, forcing compressed air into the engine, which then allows the engine to burn more air and fuel each revolution. This increase is obviously exponential; as the engine begins to rev harder, it will generate more boost and so forth (to a point). Essentially, it’s an exhaust-driven air pump.

The issue there is the strain and load that the boost puts on the engine – which is where the wastegate comes in. Once the engine generates a certain amount of boost (generally measured in PSI or Bar), the wastegate will open, allowing exhaust gas to pass by the turbine wheel, thus not generating any more boost.

The way the wastegate works, is by way of an actuator plumbed to the intake manifold. When the boost in the intake manifold reaches a certain point – say 8-PSI for an old 12H-T – the pressure forces the actuator to open, which in turn opens the wastegate, causing any extra exhaust gas to bypass the turbine.

The amount of pressure is set by the manufacturer, to what they believe to be “safe” levels, that the engine will handle over its lifetime. Back when 12H-T’s were a ‘new’ engine, 8-10PSI was about it. These days, however, in common-rail engines, pressures upwards of 20-30PSI are not unheard of as standard, and these engines can handle that amount of boost. They are waste-gated to that level or have a variable-geometry turbocharger.

Multiple turbo designs generally work in one of two ways: in parallel or in series (also known as sequential). Say for a V8 engine, with a twin-turbo set up you’ll have one turbo looking after each bank of four cylinders, plus they will generally be smaller turbos than if it was just one being driven off all eight pots – which reduces lag. The other possibility is to have a smaller turbo feeding into a bigger turbo, again, reducing the lag the larger turbo would inherently have by itself; known as a sequential setup.

Random fact: Your average turbo, when used in normal daily use, will spin upwards of 175,000 RPM. Fingers and compressor wheels don’t mix!

VGT or non-VGT waste-gated: What’s the difference?

We explained above how a waste-gate turbo works – by allowing excess exhaust gas to bypass the turbine once it’s reached the set level of boost. VGT or Variable-Geometry Turbochargers work quite a bit differently as you’ll see in this guide. The fundamentals are still the same – exhaust pushes the turbine, which turns the compressor, forcing more air into the engine. How it generates boost throughout the entire rev range and then offloads extra boost is how it’s quite a different animal.

First, we need to know about AR or Air Ratio. The Air Ratio is the ratio of the area of the exhaust turbine inlet, to the radius of the turbine impeller. With a lower ratio (and usually smaller turbo), the inlet is smaller, so the exhaust gas flowing through the turbo will be faster, but with less volume. The opposite is true for a higher ratio; more gas can pass, but at a lower velocity. This changes the engine speed at which the turbo will build boost, and how much gas it can flow. Smaller AR will generate boost earlier in the rev range but will begin to run out of puff up high. Larger AR will as you may have guessed, builds boost later on, but is able to flow more gas and air – thus creating what is quite un-affectionately known as ‘lag’ while it’s building boost.

With a standard non-VGT waste-gated turbo your AR is set, based on your rear turbine housing and impeller. This ratio is set toward the mid-rev range, so you get a compromise of being able to build boost quickly, but still have enough puff when you’re off and moving, but it’s not perfect. Wouldn’t it be great if you could have a turbo that could modify the AR while in motion, and also vent any excess exhaust gas so you don’t over-boost your engine? Enter the VGT.

In the rear (turbine) housing of a Variable-Geometry Turbo, there are a bunch of vanes around the inside of the housing. These are controlled by an actuator, which when they open and close, increase and decrease the aspect ratio of the turbine. When the vehicle is at low RPM, they close down, to increase the speed of the gas flow, and then open up when the RPM begins to get to the mid-high rev range; thus allowing more gas through. Where this does away from a standard waste-gate turbo, is that the boost is limited by the vanes – if the gas can go around the turbine blades, it will – so increasing and decreasing the AR will also impact the amount of boost generated.

A Turbochargers guide to modifications and tuning

We got to sit down with Tony and John from Motovated Turbo and Mechanical in Toowoomba, Queensland the other day and got the ins and outs of turbo modifications and what and what not to do.

Why is it worth high-flowing a turbo?

High-flowing a turbo enables more air to flow into the engine and can improve turbo efficiency.  If you have a larger compressor wheel this allows more of a volume of air to flow into the engine under the same max boost pressure.  As the compressor wheel is making an increased volume of air easier, the air intake temperature can be reduced and this helps to improve power.  You can also increase the size of the exhaust wheel as well.  This helps to reduce the amount of exhaust manifold backpressure.

This allows the engine to work easier and improves exhaust flow and which in turn, will increase engine power and torque.  On the Nissan TD42T and TI engines, this was the start of the performance gains.  From the factory, the TD42T/I had 42psi of back pressure on the standard turbo for 8- 9 psi of boost. With a high-flow turbo, you can reduce this down to 16psi of backpressure and achieve significant power gains.  The trade-off in going to the larger turbine is you will induce lag and reduce down low performance.  Small high flow turbos can see good increases in power without any noticeable change in down low response.  A high flow turbo can be better than fitting a bigger turbo in some situations as all of the original pipe works and fittings all still fit exactly the same as factory. Whereas a new bigger turbo changes this and it loses the factory appearance.

Will high-flowing the factory turbo void warranty?

In short yes it can.  It is no different to many other modifications which once fitted will affect the factory warranty.

Is there a VGT upgrade, is it any different and what does it entail?

VGT upgrades are the same as a standard high-flow turbo.  You fit larger compressor wheels and larger turbine wheels into the turbocharger. This will improve the airflow into the engine and or exhaust gas out of the turbo and improving performance.

Some engines like the Nissan ZD30 respond well to a larger turbine wheel as it helps to reduce the backpressure in the exhaust manifold and can help with blowing gaskets and also improve performance.

On some vacuum-operated turbos you can change the actuator on them to a pressure type actuator which can help to improve boost control in some situations. Turbo modifications can be custom-tailored to suit your vehicle and driving requirements. It is best to discuss this with an expert in the field of turbo modification and tuning to ensure you get the best turbo and or modifications for what you are trying to achieve.

And there you have our guide to turbochargers. Hopefully you’ve learnt a thing or two about a thing or two. Massive thanks to Tony at Motovated Turbo and Mechanical in Toowoomba for the specifics for this guide to turbochargers.

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The diesel particulate filter (DPF) has made a lot of headlines of late, most involving tales of smokescreens, class actions and other woes. With tightening emissions regulations making them mandatory for modern diesel vehicles – and DPF-equipped vehicles now common in the used-car market – are they something the used-car buyer should be wary of when looking at a DPF equipped second-hand vehicle?

The short answer is yes. DPFs are highly maintenance-intensive and, if they aren’t treated properly or problems are ignored, they can suffer catastrophic damage. They also have a shelf life that might not always be as long as that of the vehicle. With the price of a factory DPF replacement running into the many, many thousands of dollars and even aftermarket replacements a four-figure commitment, the cost can be uneconomical or even exceed the value of the vehicle itself.

All of which means they should be added to the list of things to focus on when looking over a potential used purchase. So how do you minimise the odds of buying a vehicle with a dud DPF? We asked DPF Sales Australia Director Charles Anderson – a man who lives, eats and breathes DPFs (not literally) – for his top tips on buying a DPF equipped second-hand vehicle.

Check the odometer

Predicting how long a DPF might last is tough – some can require replacement within a few years, others can last the life of the vehicle – but its odds of replacement generally increase in line with the odometer reading.

“Provided the car is maintained properly, a minimum average lifespan would be about 250,000km,” says Anderson. “But I can give examples of cars that have trouble at around 150,000-180,000km.”

For that reason, says Anderson, you should budget for future DPF replacement – and haggle harder – on any used vehicle with an odometer reading approaching those latter marks, just to be safe. While there are exceptions to this rule, they tend to be vehicles that have enjoyed the ideal combination of use and maintenance.

“I’ve got one guy with a fleet of Nissan Navaras and they do well over 400,000km on their first DPF,” says Anderson. “But they do long drives, they have the best oil, they have the best oil-change regime and they know what to do with them.”

Try and find out the history of the vehicle

Because DPFs need heat to perform a regeneration – the self-cleaning process that burns off the soot trapped by the filter – they tend to last longer in vehicles that do a lot of highway miles than those that perform a lot of short trips.

So try to ascertain how the seller has used the vehicle. Is their day job just around the corner (i.e. meaning only do short drives – bad) or do they schlep the highway to a more far-off loco (i.e. good)?

“Mind you, there are two ways to look at it,” says Anderson. “If you can factor in $1200 for a new DPF from us and negotiate a better deal on a low-mileage car, it’s probably better than buying one with a healthy DPF that has done 500,000km.”

Be wary, too, if a vehicle has a very low fuel-tank reading when you’re taking it for a test drive. Running a DPF-equipped vehicle on a very low tank can result in it avoiding the regeneration process to save fuel – an owner who habitually does this could be shortening the life of the DPF.

Look at the books

DPFs can incur serious damage from ‘upstream’ mechanical issues. A car with evidence of fuel-injector issues, turbocharger failure, split or damaged intercooler pipes, thermostat problems, clogged exhaust-gas recirculation (EGR) valves, failed glow plugs or cylinder-head gasket failure – but no similar evidence of DPF replacement or cleaning – should be viewed with suspicion.

“Usually a big turbo failure or cylinder-head gasket failure will kill a DPF, so if you haven’t got a receipt for a new DPF and it happened just before they sold the car, be wary,” says Anderson. “If you have a stuck-open thermostat the cooling system won’t get up to temperature and the car won’t perform a regen. Because a lot of cars don’t have temperature gauge anymore, the driver is unaware and they just drive it until it blocks. One blown glow plug, too, is enough to block a DPF.”

Another common cause of DPF failure is issues with the pressure-differential system that determines if the filter is in need of regeneration.

“If this happens the signalling will never go through to the car to tell it to do a regen,” says Anderson. “The car can be quite capable of doing it but it’s not told to.”

Look also for what type of oil has been put into the engine and at what intervals – if a specific low ash/low sulphur blend hasn’t been used, or the intervals are continuously stretched, the DPF’s life will be shortened.

Be wary of modifications

Correct DPF operation is dependent on all systems in the engine working as they were designed to. A car with poorly conceived or executed engine mods can throw out this balance.

“The DPF is just a lump of ceramic acting as a filter,” says Anderson. “There’s nothing it can do; everything is entirely dependent on the supporting systems in the car working correctly.”

That extends to modifications to the DPF itself or, worse, its deletion, something that’s not only undesirable but illegal.

“They’re really tightening things up now,” says Anderson. “In the Northern Territory, technicians can actually go to jail for five years for taking the DPF off.”

What to look out for with a second-hand DPF equipped vehicle…

A failing DPF will come with tell-tale symptoms, from the check-engine light or DPF light shining on the dashboard to hard-starting and a loss of power. If any of these issues are apparent on the test drive, think twice.

“If the system has excessive back-pressure, the turbo’s not going to work efficiently, so it could be down on boost,” says Anderson. “If it’s bad enough the car will go into limp mode and won’t go past 40km/h or whatever, it’ll basically be undriveable, but it can also be just be a slight loss of power. If the car doesn’t feel as responsive as one you drove earlier, you’d definitely put a question mark on it.”

A car that performs a regeneration during your test drive – while not necessarily a harbinger of doom – is also potentially problematic. “It doesn’t always mean there’s something wrong,” says Anderson. “But there’s a fair chance that if you’re driving a test car for a few minutes of its life and it happens to be doing a regen, it may be a situation where it’s continually trying to do a regen and that’s why they’re selling it.”

Your nose will tell you if that’s happening. “When a regen happening it has a really pungent, really unpleasant smell,” says Anderson. “People describe it as a toxic, chemical smell.”

Finally, glance in the rear-view mirror when accelerating (safely) and look for smoke. White smoke indicates that unburnt and vaporised diesel is getting into the system, while blue smoke can indicate serious damage to the DPF’s internals. Black smoke, meanwhile, is an indication that the DPF is no longer doing what it’s meant to – acting as a filter.

“Black smoke means they’ve taken the guts of the thing out or it’s melted a hole right through the centre, or it’s got a big crack or something,” says Anderson.

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If you’ve seen any of my 12-volt guides over the years, you would have read that there is no such thing as too much solar. That said, I understand that for many of us, roof space and money to spend on solar gear is pretty tight these days, so I thought I’d walk through a couple of examples that lay out exactly how much solar you need for a given application. Now be warned, there will be maths involved here, and everyone’s setup and requirements will be different – that’s to say the examples we’ll work with may be close, but probably won’t be exactly the same as what you have or need. Hopefully, this guide will give you a solid grasp of how to work it out so you’re heading in the right direction.

A few constants

With varying battery technologies and varying qualities of solar panels on the market, we’ll use a couple of constants in this article which will help to keep things simple. You may need to increase or lower your own information to suit your own setup, but this will get you moving in the right direction.

Battery: For the battery, we’ll work on the idea that you’ve got a single 100Ah Lead Acid (AGM/Gel) deep cycle battery, which allows (about) 50Ah of usable power. Alternatively, a 50Ah lithium battery, with the entire 50Ah usable. Regardless of which you use, the numbers will be the same. If you’ve got a 100Ah Lithium or a 200Ah battery bank of lead-acid batteries, just double the battery capacity.

Solar Panels: For the incoming power, we’ll work on the idea that you’ve not bought eBay brand ‘100 million giga-watt’ panels. Instead, we’ll say you’ve bought decent panels, that have an accurate power rating on them. To help you work out how many watts your panel is actually rated to (and for a bit of trivia), we know that a decent quality panel will is around 18 per cent efficient. We also know that 1 square meter of sunlight (directly overhead) will produce 1000 watts of power. So 180 watts per square meter of panel is about spot on. Get the measuring tape out and you’ll be able to see if your panels are accurately rated. Bear in mind that these numbers are with perfect overhead sun – no clouds, mist, haze or trees.

Solar Panel watt to amp ratings: Depending on the panel you choose, different panels will put out different watt and amp ratings. To keep this guide simple, we’ll work on the belief that the panels we’re using are high quality as above, and offer a 12-volt wattage output – so a 120W panel will output 10amps, and so on.

Solar Controller: We’re going to ignore this, as most people have a DC-DC Charger (like my Redarc BCDC1240D) with an inbuilt solar controller. Further, to keep it simple, it’s just not worth going into MPPT vs. PWM, and the difference it will make; the guide should be able to be used without needing to worry about this too much.

Power consumers: This is where it gets fuzzy. Depending on what you’re doing and using will depend on how you work this one out. So, with that in mind, let’s say we’re using my ARB Elements fridge, set to -2°C. At that temp, on your average 30-degree day, we know it’ll run at about 50 per cent duty cycle (which means the compressor, on average, will be running 50 per cent of the time to maintain that temp – a little more during the day, and a little less during the night). So we know the fridge will draw around 4-amps when it’s cycling and next to nothing when it’s not (it just needs to run the display. With this in mind, we know that a 4amp/hour fridge running (cycling) 50 per cent of the time will use 2 amps per hour.

The short version:

Battery bank: 50Ah (usable)

Solar panel: Accurately rated decent quality panels.

Solar controller: Will send to battery what the panels generate.

Consumers: Fridge – 2 amps per hour. LED strip light 2-metres total, uses 2.5 amps per hour. Phone/tablet charger – 2 amps per hour.

The equations

Volts x Amps = Watts

Say, for example, you have a 12v system and you need to replace 75Ah of charge back into your batteries each day. You have 6 hours of sunlight each day. You will need:

12V x 75Ah  = 900Wh

900Wh/6h = 150W of solar panels

The examples

Example 1 – A fridge, a battery and a solar panel.

To keep it simple, let’s work on a simple setup of a fridge, a battery and a solar panel.

Battery: 50Ah usable (100Ah lead-acid AGM)

Consumers: 12-volt fridge, drawing on average 2 amps/hour

Solar panel: 120-watt quality panel.

Over a 24-hour period, the fridge will use 48Ah, which will flatten our battery (we’re assuming you’ve just driven to camp and your auxiliary battery is proper charged to full). Our 120-watt panel will put in a little under 10 amps/hour (while in full direct sun). On average, in the warmer months (read: longer days) we’ll get 4 hours of solid sun, and another 4 at around 50 per cent power. So call it 6 hours total of good solid charging sunlight.

So long as we’re just using our fridge, every day, that little 120-watt panel should be enough to keep our batteries charged indefinitely. If we have an overcast day we’ll run into problems, or shade, or a bunch of other reasons, but that should sort us out.

The only hassle is that we don’t just run fridges. We run lights and chargers and stereos and a bunch of other little things that all add up. So always try to go above what you work out you actually need.

Example 2 – Wes’ HiLux.

Let’s use my HiLux as an example, which will be a little different to the constants we spoke about before, but stick with me.

Batteries: 100Ah usable (Baintech 100Ah slim-line lithium).

Consumers: ARB Elements Fridge @ 2 amps/hour, LED Strip light – 2 metres of it @ 2.5 amps/hour, phone charger @ 2 amps/hour, laptop charger 75W @ 240V gives 3.2 amps/hour, camera battery charger 1.5 amps/hour.

Solar panels: 320-watt fixed panels on my canopy (2 x 160W panels).

First things first, let’s add up my usage over a 24-hour period:

Fridge: 2A x 24h = 48Ah

LED Strip Light: 2.5A x 4h = 10Ah

Phone/Tablet charger: 2A x 4h = 8Ah

Laptop charger: 3.2A x 1h = 3.2Ah

Camera charger: 1.5A x 2h = 3Ah

Total usage over 24 hours: 72.2Ah.

How much power are the solar panels returning?

320-watts at 12-volts gives us 26.6 amps per hour of power. Working on the idea that we get 6 hours of sunlight per day, I should be able to return around 159.6 Ah to my battery, which should keep it fully charged, indefinitely.

Is that overkill though? Well, maybe a little, but not really. If I have a slightly cloudy day I may be down to just 3 hours of solid sunlight, which just covers my usage. Or, if I run my Travel Buddy pie oven, that munches 10 amps an hour (and a roast takes about four hours, right?). Or I may spend the day on the computer writing articles about 12-volt systems for you amazing folks, and use more there. There are many, many variables that you need to take into account; thus the old adage, you can never have too much solar!

Hopefully, this will let you work out for yourself exactly how much solar you need, but always try to be over that number by about 20 per cent or more. Free energy is possibly the greatest thing in the world, and we should all be making the most of it.

Just as a final thought, the legends over at Redarc have a calculator that’ll help you work all this out too; head over to here to have a look.

The post Calculating how much solar you actually need: A Guide appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

With travel restrictions beginning to ease, fingers crossed 2021 will be an outback bonanza for many… so our latest How To driving guide focusses on Outback Driving Techniques for everything you need to know before you point your rig inland. In Part 1 we’ll look at what you need to do to get ready to go, and then each week after we’ll examine specific driving techniques for the different conditions you’re likely to encounter, issues around vehicle set-up, and what gear you’ll need to take with you.

Unsealed roads

There are more than 900,000km of roads in Australia, of which only 350,000km or so are sealed, so eventually you’re going to find yourself driving on one of the 550,000km of unsealed roads that cover this massive continent.

Driving on unsealed roads is very different to driving on blacktop for several reasons, not least of which is the fact there is less grip, and surface conditions can also change markedly as you drive due to the changing surrounding terrain, as well as potholes, corrugations, dust sections, mud and many other variables…

There are many different types of unsealed roads, too, and these range from good quality gravel-covered roads to poorly maintained, potted and bulldust covered outback tracks. Australia’s outback is criss-crossed by all of the above.

So, how do you know what driving conditions to expect on an outback trip? Before you head off, do a little research to figure out exactly what conditions you might experience. You can do this by reading maps, asking about local conditions in nearby towns and by checking with local and/or state roads authorities, in person, by phone or online.

It’s also important to make sure your vehicle is up to the task of driving on unsealed roads; you’ll need tyres with plenty of tread depth and suspension in good condition. And you’ll need to carry a tyre repair kit, tyre pressure gauge and air compressor, because changing tyre pressures to suit the terrain will make outback driving more comfortable, safer and easier on your vehicle.

Vehicle set-up

Driving in four-wheel drive on unsealed roads provides much more traction than driving in two-wheel drive, and this will result in better vehicle control.

If you drive a vehicle with a part-time 4×4 system, you’ll have to engage four-wheel drive when you hit the dirt, either via a lever attached directly to the vehicle’s transfer case or, as is the case in most modern vehicles, via an electrically operated switch or dial. If your vehicle is an older model with manually operated free-wheeling hubs, make sure they’re in the locked position.

For vehicles equipped with a full-time 4×4 system, locking the centre differential will ensure a 50:50 torque split between front and rear axles. This might not be necessary on some modern high-tech 4x4s such as vehicles fitted with a mode-selectable 4×4 system, in which case you can simply select the ‘gravel’ or ‘dirt roads’ setting.

Tyre pressures

You’ll need to adjust tyre pressures when driving long distances on unsealed roads. While 35psi might be fine on the road, it’s too high for rough gravel and dirt, so let some air out. Lowering tyre pressures will not only improve ride quality, but also reduce the risk of tyre damage, including chipping across the tread area and the likelihood of punctures.

There’s no absolutely correct tyre pressure for driving on unsealed outback roads, as there are a lot of variables, such as the vehicle itself, the load being carried and the type and condition of the road surface. If you find yourself driving on a good gravel road and you can easily maintain a similar speed to when you were driving on a sealed road, you can leave your tyre pressures as they were, but if the road surface deteriorates and you have to lower your speed, you should think about lowering tyre pressures too. Bear in mind that it’s safer to lower tyre pressures if you have LT (Light Truck) construction tyres fitted, as they are stronger in the sidewall and across the tread area than P (Passenger) construction tyres.

If your standard road pressure is 38psi, for example, drop pressures to 32psi on rough gravel and see how it feels. Or if you were running just 30psi on the road, then you might find dropping to 26psi might be suitable on crook gravel roads and tracks. If ride quality still feels harsh, drop tyre pressures a bit more, but if the vehicle starts to feel sloppy and cornering is affected, you may have dropped tyre pressures too far. It’s important to bear in mind that as you lower tyre pressures, the tyres will flex more and therefore they will generate more heat, so you’ll need to lower vehicle speed to compensate.

Next week?

So that’s it for Outback Driving Techniques Part 1. Keep an eye for Part 2 of our series in which we’ll look at how to deal with dusty conditions… and driving through bulldust patches.

The post Outback Driving Techniques – Part 1 appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

Yes, you do need a dedicated off-road hitch if you tow your trailer off the blacktop, but how do you choose the right one? Here’s absolutely everything you ever wanted to know about the different types of off-road hitches…

Tow a camper, caravan or any type of trailer off-road? If you do, you should consider replacing the age-old 50mm ball for a dedicated off-road hitch that can handle articulation in all planes. This comprehensive guide by Mark Allen explains absolutely everything you need to know about selecting the best off-road hitch to suit your towing needs. It’s long, so settle in, because this is important stuff for anyone who tows a trailer off-road.

While that good ol’ 50m ball does have its place and can handle long-distance travel on and off the bitumen, there are many situations it simply wasn’t designed for, and it can severely hinder your off-road ability, plus be downright dangerous.

In years gone by, there were relatively few options when it came to selecting an off-road hitch, making a choice easy. Within the last five to 10 years though, there has been a glut of hitches swamp the market, most of which have had decent R&D, but some not. Most perform the intended job off-road; some don’t. Some are not ADR approved and some that in fact make hitching and unhitching much easier.

Read on for our ultimate guide as to what’s available to best suit your needs, plus we’ll cover a few golden oldies that are no longer available.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN AN OFF-ROAD HITCH

Make sure the off-road hitch can achieve the off-road angles you’re planning for it. Do remember though, many of these hitches state both vertically up and down angles of 90 degrees: while this is great, in reality, you’ll never get your vehicle and trailer combination anywhere close to this. Same goes for the 360-degree rotation ability: unless you roll your 4X4 and your trailer stays on its wheels, you’ll never get that much rotational ability.

Depending on how the rear doors or tailgate opens on your vehicle, make sure it doesn’t hit the off-road hitch or restrict the opening.

Make sure you can easily hitch and unhitch your trailer; not just while on the nice flat concrete driveway at home, but also when you’re on the beach or uneven ground where you can’t easily move the trailer by hand. Some hitches require you to reverse very accurately into position to allow for the hitch to engage – if there’s no room for error or misalignment, you could be stuck not being able to hitch up. A few millimetres out of alignment and they won’t come together… no matter how much you kick or swear at them!

Some off-road hitch designs are (so-called) self-aligning but I can assure you they all have to be within cooee initially to allow this function to happen. The better the self-aligning ability of the coupling, the easier your life will be every time you use your trailer or van.

Try looking for an off-road hitch that doesn’t send the load of the trailer ball weight rearwards of the standard position of the tongue – good luck on this one as most tend to utilise various brackets that force the downward load rearwards.

The greater the number of fiddly clips, buttons, latches and locks, the less simple (and easy) it ends up being in real-life use, especially given the likelihood your hitch will get covered in mud, water and dust. The more gunk it gets on it, the less likely all those fiddly bits will work like they do in the showroom.

Some hitch brands offer override brake systems built into the main body as options; check first if you need that option, especially if you’re updating a hitch onto an old trailer.

Make sure the hitch (or next to the hitch) includes a facility for a handbrake… it’s not funny watching your camper roll away when you unhitch!

Part of the ‘National Code of Practice – Building Small Trailers’ mentions a trailer that doesn’t exceed 3.5-tonnes ATM “must have a quick-release coupling which is designed to be engaged and disengaged without the use of tools. It must be of a positive locking type with provision for a second independent device. The locking must be readily verifiable by visual inspection.” The code does go on with further regulations, but either some coupling manufacturers either haven’t read this code or have been smart enough to get around the loosely written code by slight… let’s just say… bending of the intended rules… you be the judge, eh!

Watch out for all the cheap overseas copies that have hit our shores. While some may have been tested and ADR approved, and some may be designed for our use off-road, I can assure you some fall short of the goalposts and do vary slightly from the original design parameters from which they were copied.

Most of these off-road hitches will offer articulation in all planes that will far outdo anything anyone will ever achieve in real life. I’d go so far as to say if you can test to the maximum angles of this hitch, you’ll end up without the shiny side up.

Happy hitch hunting.

 

50MM BALL

Yes, a traditional 50mm ball coupling is fine for on-road and flat off-road work, but once the undulating tracks and true off-road work starts; you’re best swapping the standard ball for a dedicated off-road coupling. In fact, there are advantages to not using a 50mm ball even for on-road use.

My personal experience of trying to unhitch a dual axle caravan that had developed axle-twist while reversing into a tight parking spot found me fighting for way too long to unhitch from the 50mm ball. That twisting effect had bound the coupling onto the ball and given the inability to slide directly vertical over the bulge of the ball meant I couldn’t unhitch. Most parallel-walled tow pins, on the other hand, would have allowed the jockey wheel to lift the van off easily. Since then, I’ve vowed never to use a 50mm ball on a caravan.

A 50mm ball offers acceptable horizontal movement, but is particularly restrictive in rotational and vertical angle movement, making for steep descents or ascents into gullies or river banks impossible without damage.

One point to note is that most 50mm ball couplings are adjustable, and most people don’t set them correctly. See the nut and thread protruding from the snout of the trailer hitch – it needs to be adjusted when the hitch is sitting on the ball to rid movement and noise. You’ve still got metal- on-metal, which will produce wear and tear over time, but a 50mm ball should not rattle if adjusted correctly.

Most standard 50mm coupling aren’t particularly low profile, making for damaged rear doors if you’re not careful while opening.

Personally, if you insist on using a 50mm ball, and that’s okay, I’d flick the standard hitch and look at one of the off-road hitches that can be used with the ball.

 

AL-KO NEW OFF-ROAD BALL COUPLING

Well known for its range of trailer and caravan suspension and parts, AL-KO also has a number of off-road hitches in 2.0 and 3.5-tonnes fixed and override configurations; all of which are ADR compliant.

While the original AL-KO Off-road Ball Coupling is no longer available (it has been replaced by a design similar to the old Hyland product) the New Off-road Ball Coupling still utilises a standard 50mm ball, although clamps on differently to a standard ball coupling.

With its pivoting head, the system is somewhat self-aligning and is unhitched via a lift-up T-piece handle at the top of the main pivoting head. The non-corrosive zinc coating should see the hitch looking good for many years.

A point to note on the original design for making hitching up easier is to remove the round red side-mounted knob to help hold the pivoting head in position; otherwise, you’ll find yourself unnecessarily holding the head up level. Don’t forget to replace it before driving off! The newer design overcomes that teething problem.

One advantage to this hitch is the ability to tow many different trailers that use the 50mm ball, without changing your ball. Other pluses are that the hitch is quite low profile (allowing for use with most tow vehicles’ rear doors), it doesn’t require pins or other locking mechanisms to be used and it can be used with weight-distribution systems.

Website: alko.com.au

 

AL-KO OFF-ROAD PIN COUPLING

This AL-KO off-road hitch utilises a dedicated tow post rather than a 50mm ball as per the company’s other offering. It needs no locking pins, latches or fiddly levers to aid in hitching and unhitching. A simple depression of the top cap and the positive latching indicator (after which you can remove your hands) allows the raising of the jockey wheel to unhitch the hitch from the pin.

Lowered onto the pin; the integrated positive latching indicator automatically pops out to show a green coloured band amid the surrounding red. This ADR-compliant system double locks and prevents accidental dislodging of the hitch.

Provided the hitch is within close range over the pin prior to lowering, it will pivot and self-centre. If you are beyond the scope of working, the AL-KO Click Lock system will not engage the pin, and the green band does not pop out; a great visual indicator that something is amiss.

A low 83mm hitch height allows for use with most door openings, and the 3500kg rating allows use on most larger campers and caravans too.

Given its anti-corrosion coatings, this hitch should remain faithful for many outback and coastal trips. The integrated seals help keep dust and water from within the main hitch body so ongoing use in adverse conditions should be good.

Website: alko.com.au

 

ARK XO OFF-ROAD COUPLING

The cast ARK XO 2-tonne and 3.5-tonne couplings offer full off-road articulation in all axes while utilising a standard 50mm ball. Single-handed hitching and unhitching is via the simple top-mounted locking mechanism with inbuilt red and green indicator to ensure the hitch is seated. There’s also a ‘stopper’ to hold the head up level so it can easily drop onto the ball without having your fingers in the way.

Self-aligning via the head pivoting allows the coupling to slide onto the ball, providing the alignment is close to start with. There are no extra pins, locks or parts to use or lose.

The low profile allows rear swing-out doors to open without concern for denting the panels and the package also comes complete with a 50mm ball just in case the one you already have is not quite right, making the whole kit instantly useable.

The 2-tonne unit offers an override system with lockout (can be used as override brakes or electric), while the 3.5-tonne is for electric braking systems only. ARK also supplies a suitable handbrake lever that slips under the coupling when bolting the whole system on.

There are multiple grease nipples to ensure everything rotates smoothly in all axes. Another big plus with the OX series off-road hitches is that they comply with Australian standards, so peace of mind is always with you on the tracks.

Given it uses a 50mm ball; there is no need to switch coupling if you have multiple trailers in use.

Website: arkcorp.com.au

 

HITCHMASTER AT35 COUPLING

Previously manufactured by Vehicle Components (with a new company name of Cruisemaster) in Queensland, the 3.5-tonne rated AT35 off-road hitch has long since been shelved in favour of the original DO35, which is now up to version three. The AT35 was a crowd favourite along with the poly block hitch types and incorporated a cast pivoting joint which was bushed to prevent rattling, plus a vertical main (spring-loaded) pin which was dropped into position to secure the trailer to the tow vehicle. As well as the standard linchpin that slots into the main pin underneath, the AT35 had extra locking mechanisms to satisfy ADR requirements and to ensure the security of the whole setup.

The AT35 was SA5 coated to resist rust and had optional handbrakes that bolt to the rear of the main body. You can no longer buy the AT35.

Website: cruisemaster.com.au

 

CRUISEMASTER DO35 COUPLING

Queensland based Cruisemaster (previously known as Vehicle Components) is responsible for the design and manufacture of the DO35 (stands for Drop On 3.5-tonne) off-road hitch of which it’s up to version three, which the company claims to be 50 per cent stronger than V2. Plus there is also a higher rated DO45 (4.5-tonne) unit for those who need the higher capacity. The Cruisemaster DO35 unit incorporates a pivoting, self-aligning head that drops onto a dedicated forged towing pin.

Laser-cut designs utilising forged steel, stainless steel and polyurethane, combined with casting methods to ensure precision and strength, 360-degree rotation combined with 70 degrees vertical and horizontal angles, all ensure you’ll tow through almost any angled terrain.

A simple and positive two-stage ADR-compliant locking mechanism ensures fast and safe hitching of your trailer in any terrain while allowing for self-centring as your jockey wheel is lowered. A Checklock cap is also included to ensure positive attachment as well as aiding in keeping dust and water out of the hitch’s workings.

Being such a low profile ensures dent-free use with most tow vehicle tailgates and door openings. Greasable bushings ensure squeak-free workings, while the corrosion-resistant coating should keep your hitch looking like new.

The newer, taller tow pin allows for easy fitting of weight distribution hitches without relying on adaptors.

Early in 2020, Cruisemaster advised us of an upgraded version of the V3 – the V3Plus, which has a few subtle changes driven by customer feedback such as a more intuitive Checklock cap and bumper closing action, increased durability of the front strip, and improved rear webbing that allows fitting under the drawbar.

Website: cruisemaster.com.au

 

HITCH-EZY

The Hitch-Ezy is one of a few hitches that don’t incorporate a vehicle-mounted receiver that transfers the ball weight of the trailer rearward of the standard towing point. That’s a good thing to keep the downward ‘ball weight’ of the trailer as far forward as possible to reduce the negative cantilevering effect on the rear of your tow vehicle.

The Hitch-Ezy utilises a unique towing post, to which the self-centring head engages onto. This hitch locks into position via a set of three internal, spring-loaded ball bearings. Seals are used to keep dirt, water and grit out of the mechanism to aid in long term use. Hitching and unhitching are exceptionally easy with one-touch operation, keeping fingers well away from any moving parts while operating the jockey wheel.

There are 3.5 and 5-tonne units available, both of which are ADR approved. The Hitch-Ezy incorporates automatic double locking when the trailer is lowered into position, and has no pins, locks or parts to lose while out and about, making for easy use. The complete unit is bushed to provide a rattle-free operation and incorporates padlock holes to deter theft.

This hitch can be removed from your tow vehicle, even under load from the trailer, making for easy operation.

Weight distribution systems are useable via adaptors to suit most setups.

Website: hitch-ezy.com.au

 

HYLAND COUPLING

While the Hyland coupling (company) is now defunct, it’s worthy of mention as it was one of the earlier, successful off-road hitches available. Noting also, since the company’s closure, there are options from AL-KO and ARK of a similar design, which utilise a 50mm ball.

The main advantage of the Hyland hitch is that it doesn’t require changing from a 50mm ball; meaning one fitting can be used with both your standard on-road trailer and an off-road trailer.

The Hyland coupling is as simple and easy as a standard 50mm coupling to hitch and unhitch. When hitching up, the head will rotate in two planes to aid alignment. One point to note is that a 50mm ball (rated to 3500kg) with a slightly longer shaft should be used to ensure the coupling seats properly. Often, standard 50mm shafts will not allow the coupling to ‘drop’ on far enough, and the unwary will have their trailer parting ways when least expected – there were no safety or warning aspects for this problem built into the hitch.

The Hyland hitch requires the same internal tongue adjustment as a standard 50mm ball hitch via the top-mounted external nut and thread. This ensures a rattle-free firm fitment on the ball.

 

MCHITCH UNIGLIDE COUPLING

McHitch took a new and alternate look at attaching a trailer to a tow vehicle with its drop-on hitch. The main claim to ‘greatness’ is that the point of attachment (of your trailer to the tow vehicle) is different to the point of movement. That is, unlike all others, the trailer is “clamped’ to the vehicle at one point and rotates (in all three axes) at a separate point. This should, according to the manufacturer, prevent wear and tear from ‘pulling’ the weight of your trailer… although that pulling action must take place somewhere along the mechanical line, so you can’t really escape that fact.

The self-aligning and high articulation angles in all planes makes for a great all-round hitch. One downside, which seems to be hypothetical, is some commentators claim a uni-joint was made for rotational forces, not a lateral pull as per this design. Given the design has been tested and passed, plus is ADR approved, I’d suggest the McHitch system should be safe and suitable in its use. Weight-distribution systems can be used, and there are a few options to look at on the company’s website.

The ADR-approved McHitch is also unique in the use of a universal joint (courtesy of a LandCruiser for its 3.5-tonne model and a light truck for its 6-tonne unit) to provide its pivoting point in two planes. The third plane movement is around the horizontal main shaft within the body. There are also 2 and 4.5-tonne versions, as well as adaptors to suit many other couplings – AT35, Treg and Trigg, which allows you to keep one half of an old hitch in service.

The system requires the use of its uniquely shaped towing pin to which the hitch locks onto via a ‘screw-in’ round handle and horizontal, slide-in pin, into which a clevis pin slides into to lock into place.

McHitch offers a range of adaptors for other hitch types to be used in conjunction with its own and also has optional weight distribution brackets for heavy vans while being used on-road.

Website: mchitch.com.au

 

MCHITCH AUTO COUPLER

Equally distant to anything else on the market as McHitch’s Uniglide drop-on system, the Auto Coupler almost dismays for its uniqueness. The process of hitching your trailer to your vehicle can be done (almost) automatically. There are a few extra things to do before driving away, but the main, initial step of hitching is indeed automatic.

With the system set accordingly, reversing into your trailer sees the primary release lever dropping and locking into place automatically. The jockey wheel has to be wound up, electrical plug connetcted, safety chains attached, and the two extra safety mechanisms engaged. These additional steps almost negate the automatic advantages but, all up, it’s a brilliantly simple and easy system. The automatic system will only work if the horizontal pin is within the receiver plate range. Outside of that range will necessitate the user to adjust either or both the height of the trailer (via the jockey wheel) and the alignment of the trailer to allow proper engagement. Provided the pin and receiver are within range, the system will self-centre as you reverse.

As the driver, you’d need to be mindful while reversing onto the horizontal pin; bumping it too hard may well damage the trailer, your vehicle or perhaps send your trailer off on a solo mission – make sure the handbrake is firmly engaged!

McHitch has successfully refined a hitching system found in the trucking industry; almost all ‘Dog’ and ‘Pig’ trailers are hitched via a similar mechanism. McHitches version eliminates all rattles and coarseness to provide a smooth towing experience. The Auto Coupler is ADR approved and there are kits from 2, 3.5, 4.5 to 6-tonne. Handbrake kits are also available for most of his kits.

Website: mchitch.com.au

 

ORAC HITCH

The Orac off-road hitch is Australian made by O’Brien’s Camper Trailers in Victoria and is a super-simple system that allows for extremes of articulation in all directions, is rated at 2.5-tonnes and comes as a weld-on option only.

Once the horizontal main pin is inserted, a side-mounted clevis pin keeps it all together – done and finished, nothing else to do. The only thing needed for easy hitching is to ensure the height of the trailer (via the jockey wheel) is spot on to allow the pin to slide in unhindered without rubbing on the bushes within the pivoting head.

The horizontal pivoting action is via a solid metal bush positioned where the vertical bolt attaches the whole unit to the tow vehicle. The 90-degree vertical movement (up and down) is via the main (bushed) pin, while the rotational motion is via the main shaft – three simple axis movements.

The bolt attaching the unit to the tow vehicle can be installed pointing either up or down to reduce potential damage to the thread.

Website: obrienstrailers.com.au

 

OZHITCH

The OzHitch has overcome some of the older poly block style hitch problems. Firstly, the self-alignment into a cradle head makes life much easier when hitching up. Once the trailer section is nestled into the cradle, there is no ‘fiddling’ necessary with the jockey wheel to get the correct height. Once it’s in, it’s in! Same goes when unhitching; the trailer is actually resting in the cradle, so pin removal is easy.

Next advantage, the pin slots in horizontally instead of vertically, making the job easier to see and accomplish. The main pin is spring-loaded and locks into a ‘gate’, plus it’s also secured by a traditional linchpin.

One point I do like about this hitch is the ability to mount the bolt that secures the whole show to the tow vehicle pointing upwards instead of downwards. This increases underbody clearances, and also reduces the chances of the thread being damaged – as its pointing up, not down.

The OzHitch is ADR approved and rated at 3500kg. It’s got easily replaceable bushes to ensure a quiet ride and is as simple as they get while being very clever in its dedicated off-road recreational design parameters. Being as simple as it is, it also allows for bush remedies in that you can use a bolt or wire to double as the main pin or linchpin should you lose either.

Website: ozhitch.com.au

 

POLY BLOCK

The Trigg and Treg brands of poly block hitches represent the Australian made versions and are the originals with Treg dating back to 1947 and the Trigg foundry near on a century from 1925. Given this hitch type is the most often copied, be aware of non-ADR approved versions, some of which seem okay, some not. Poly block hitches are restricted in their vertical up and down movement (about 70 degrees) via a small pin in the rear of the block and the main safety pin can (at times) foul on the swivel head. They also cannot tackle some compound articulation without binding; that is, combining some horizontal and some vertical movements at the same time.

The poly block hitch utilises a vertical safety pin that drops into the main towbar bracket, through the poly block and is secured by a linchpin at the bottom. The main poly block provides good damping between trailer and vehicle, and also incorporates a metal sleeve within, which the main pin slides on and, to this day, still represents a good off-road hitch option.

The main downside is aligning the hitch while on uneven ground or soft sand where the trailer can’t be pushed by hand. Unless you get the holes perfectly aligned, you can’t slide the locking pin in… regardless of how much yelling you do! Raising and lowering of the jockey wheel is often needed to help with alignment to allow the pin to drop freely (or be removed) into position.

The poly block style hitch is reasonably simple in its workings with not much to go wrong. Always ensure you have a few extra linchpins, although a nail or length or wire can always get you out of trouble if you lose the dedicated pin. Poly block couplings have various weight ratings and come in many braked and unbraked guises.

Websites: tregtrailers.com.au and triggbrs.com.au

 

RING AND PINTLE

While not used too much within the camper trailer industry, we’ll include the Ring and Pintle for general interest. These hitch types are more utilised in commercial applications and small trucks and rarely used for camper trailers or caravans as they allow a great deal of knocking and clanging which also produces a lot of wear with metal-on-metal rubbing.

Notably, Cruisemaster manufactures its version that incorporates a rubber insert to eliminate all the noise and wear problems, and some offer a combination Hook and Pintle with a 50mm ball… perhaps the Hook and Pintle will make a comeback!

 

LEGALITIES

One of the main attributes you must consider when choosing an off-road hitch is legalities. Yes, choose a hitch that has a high enough load rating, but also ensure it is ADR approved – it should be stamped onto the main body of the hitch. Remember, if it’s not ADR approved, your insurance may well be null and void in the event of a claim after an accident.

The post The ultimate off-road hitch guide – Everything you ever wanted to know appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

Considering the age-old question still comes up when talking among my mates, I figured it was time to sit down and run through the pros and cons of fitting either muddies or all-terrains, and which tread pattern may be right for you. Tyre choice has become even more critical, now that we are finally seeing a bit of rain around the country, and we’re mostly sitting around at home getting our four-wheel drives sorted out with goodies and upgrades while we wait out this current mess. So, which style of tyre is right for you? Let’s have a look at their features and then their pros and cons, which will hopefully give us a solid answer as to which way to go.  

All-terrain 

All-terrains are the go-to for the vast majority of us. They’re a great compromise between off-road ability and on-road manners. As the name suggests, a quality all-terrain tyre will have tread blocks built to be able to grapple with the terrain they’re pointed at, whether rocks, sand, dirt or mud. That said, bitumen is one of those terrains they are called to travel, and often more than in the dirt or mud. They will often utilise a rubber compound that will last reasonably well on the blacktop, and not wear too quickly. This does make them more susceptible to cuts and abrasions in their tread compared to a mud-terrain.  

More often than not, you’ll also notice the tread pattern is designed in a way that allows them to handle better on bitumen, in both the dry and the wet. The gaps between tread blocks are smaller, which also helps to reduce road noise. Then some will come in both a passenger and light-truck construction, which changes the carcass build, allowing for more or less sidewall flex and protection. Wherever possible, it’s wise to opt into the light-truck construction, for that added protection and strength in the tyre while you’re four-wheel driving.  

Pros 

• Good balance between on-road and off-road performance. 
• Decent on-road and wet weather ability. 
• Quieter than a mud-terrain. 
• Usually longer life than a mud-terrain. 
• A vast off-road increase over an OEM highway-terrain. 

Cons 

• Louder than a highway-terrain. 
• There are varying degrees of aggressiveness; you’ll need to work out which AT is best for you. 

Mud-terrain 

Mud-terrains are becoming more of a specialist tyre than they used to be. Where the change in the tyre and tread design in all-terrains has become more evident with increases in technology, from appearances, mud-terrains still look like the big, old, chunky tyres we’ve always known. Looks, as we all know, can be deceiving. 

With the increases in technology over the last few years, mud-terrain tyres are charging ahead with new tricks to make them handle better on the blacktop, and also better in the harder off-road trails. They don’t usually handle nearly as well on the bitumen as their all-terrain counterparts; however, they offer up the off-road ability and traction that some of us need.  

Tread patterns, as we said, are big and chunky; however, muddies are now including technology seen across the all-terrains range. Sipes in the tread blocks to assist while driving on wet roads, specific angled blocks to minimise on-road noise and improve on-road handling, scooped and dimpled blocks to create air pockets to help in ejecting mud, as well as stone ejector rips between the blocks.  

Pros 

• Excellent off-road ability against the highway-terrain or all-terrain option. 
• Larger gap between tread-blocks allows better traction. 
• Larger lugs and side-biters to increase traction when off-road. 
• The best possible traction and performance in off-road terrain except sand and bitumen. 
• All come in light-truck construction (more robust carcass and sidewall protection than some all-terrains). 

Cons 

• Rather loud on the blacktop. 
• Poor bitumen and wet weather performance. 
• Usually priced higher than all-terrain options. 

Horses for courses 

Now you’ll need to understand that when you’re looking at getting some new tyres for your four-wheel drive, and you’re trying to decide which is for you, that tyre choice is a very personal decision; especially when the choice transcends brands, and you’re weighing up between muddies and all-terrains. You’ll need to sit back a while and work out where you’ve taken your vehicle, and where you plan on going. There’s also your previous experiences to draw on; did you perhaps get stuck in a spot with all-terrains that a mud-terrain could have powered through? Would a mud-terrain have even helped or just made the situation worse?  

Personally, I do a lot of kilometres on the bitumen running down the M1 to the office and back for work in my HiLux… yet I run mud-terrain tyres, instead of all-terrains. Sounds a bit odd, right? The way I’ve always looked at it is, despite doing a fair bit on-road, I spend a fair bit of time off-road in it. Whether that be doing a tips-and-tricks article, or shooting custom vehicles, or even just out for a play on the weekend. I put up with the on-road noise and poor wet-weather characteristics (I actually drive it like I’m driving a three-tonne four-wheel drive, not a sports car) to know that I have access to all the traction I need when I’m not on the blacktop. 

Your situation could be, and most likely is, completely different. You only venture off into the harder tracks or trails on the very odd occasion or don’t at all. Alternatively, you poke your nose down a trail that shouldn’t be attempted by any sane four-wheel driver without a monster truck, any chance you get. 

Just look at the options you’ve got, and where you’re expecting to go into the future, and make a decision based on that.  

The post All-Terrains or Mud-Terrains? The best rubber to suit your needs. appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

 The Cast Iron Camp Oven 

 The cast iron camp oven is no new thing. They were initially developed by the Dutch in the 17th century, and were affectionately known as ‘Dutch Ovens’. They are, as the name suggests, made from cast iron, and are a rather solid unit. They offer excellent heat retention due to their construction and wall thickness on the oven and distribute the heat over the entire oven reasonably well. If you look after them, they will last you a lifetime, so long as you clean them after use, and then keep them seasoned with a bit of oil to stop them rusting. 

 PROS 

• Exceptional heat retention; perfect for slow cooking 
• Even heat distribution – easier to get the ‘oven’ effect from them and a touch easier to cook with for first-timers chasing the traditional camp-oven roast. 
• Longevity – look after your oven, they’ll look after you.  

CONS 

• They’re a heavy bit of kit for what they are.  
• If they do begin to rust, it’s hard to bring them back to a usable state. 
• They’re brittle. If you drop one of these, there’s a good chance it will crack which renders it just about useless.  

The Spun Steel Camp Oven 

The spun steel camp oven, more affectionately known as the Bedourie Oven is an Australian adaption of the cast iron camp oven. Originally, the drovers working on Bedourie Station in western Queensland worked out that the cast iron camp ovens they were using would break if they fell from their pack horses once they made camp. A mild steel camp oven was created in response to the breakages of the cast iron options they were using. The spun steel ovens are lighter, stronger, and less brittle than their cast iron counterparts, and will not crack or break if dropped.   

That said, they are much thinner than the cast iron option, and so don’t retain heat as well, or offer as even heat distribution. When cooking with them, extra care must be taken to keep an eye on the amount of coals added to the base, and more coals should be added to the top of the oven, to have the heat dissipate downwards as a traditional oven would.  

 PROS 

• Lightweight – they’re usually a third of the weight of a cast iron camp oven 
• Much more robust than their cast iron counterpart 
• They heat up and begin cooking much quicker; so can be used open on a fire as a skillet/frying pan. 
• Can be used easily on coals or a gas cooktop. 

CONS 

• They do not retain the heat as well as cast iron, so more care is needed when cooking. 
• Much harder to get a solid slow-cooked roast from – more practice needed to get your roasts spot on.

Caring for your camp oven 

Seasoning your camp oven should be the first thing you’ll do with your new cast iron or spun steel camp oven. You can do this at home before the first adventure of into the great beyond on your barbeque. Before you do anything, give the entire camp oven a thorough wash down with mild soapy water, to get any manufacturing oil or residue out. 

You’ll need to lightly oil the entire camp oven, including the lid, pot, and handle. If you can, use a high-smoke point oil, like canola oil, or sunflower oil. They won’t smoke as badly when you’re seasoning the new oven, and so don’t burn off as quickly. Plus it won’t upset the neighbours too bad! 

Once you’ve lightly oiled the pot, get the barbeque going, and run it up to high heat with the lid closed.  

For a cast iron camp oven: 

Then you’ll want to add the camp oven, with the lid and pot separated, and with the pot upside down. Let it run on med-high heat for about 30-40 minutes, then turn the barbeque off and let it cool down naturally. Leaving the lid on the barbeque closed will slow the cooling process, which will negate any chance of the cast iron cracking, especially in the cooler months.  

For a spun steel camp oven: 

Similar process as to the cast iron oven, however, you can leave the lid on the camp oven, and you should only need to run the barbeque for around 10-15 minutes. This is due to the spun steel oven being thinner, and absorbing the heat a lot quicker. As with the cast iron oven, allow it to cool slowly, and that will have you just about done. 

Once your camp oven has cooled down, enough to touch, you’ll want to lightly oil the oven, both inside and out, to stop it from rusting until your next cook up. 

After every use, you’ll want to ensure the camp oven has a slight oil film over the entire oven, especially so if you’ve needed to scrub it clean.  

And there you have the ins and outs of the cast and spun camp oven.

The post Spun vs Cast – Which camp oven is right for you appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

Aside from the typical branding of manufacturer and tread pattern/model that is emblazoned down the sides of your tyres, there’s some extra information that you could find important to calculate your tyre size. In this quick yarn, we’ll give you all the information you need to be able to read the side of your tyres, and even show you how to convert your tyre size into inches. This is especially true when you’re trying to work out what size tyre you can fit under your four-wheel drive.

Size

Most tyres use metric sizing these days. As an example, let’s use a ‘285/75R16LT’ as an example, and break it down.

Firstly, the ‘285’ points out the width of the tyre, in millimetres.

After the slash is the height of the tyre’s sidewall or aspect ratio, expressed as a percentage of the tyre’s width (again in millimetres). In our case, the ‘75’ sidewall height works out as 75 per cent of 285mm, which is around 213 millimetres.

The ‘R’ indicates a radial construction (around 99% of tyres these days are radials).

The next number in our example is ‘16’, which indicates the wheel diameter in inches.

Finally, ‘LT’ denotes ‘Light Truck’. Four-wheel drivers want this specification, as it means the tyre has a much sturdier construction than the normal passenger ‘P’ construction. This can sometimes be expressed before the tyre width.

To calculate your tyre size in inches you need to do the following: 

We know that we have a sidewall height (from wheel to tread) of 213mm (working out 75 per cent of 285mm width, as above). We need to double that (top and bottom of the wheel) to get 426mm. Then, we convert that to inches, which gives us 16.8, and then add that 16.8-inches to the wheel diameter (16-inch wheel), which gives us an old size of 32.8-inches.

If your tyre’s size is expressed in the old money, it will look something like this: 33×11.50R16 LT. In this sequence, the first two numbers indicate the tyre’s height and width, expressed in inches. This is followed by a letter, which indicated the tyre’s construction (in this case, radial). After that, it’s the diameter of the rim (also in inches), and then the Light Truck designation.

Service Description

This is also important information, describing what sort of work the tyre is rated for. As four-wheel drivers we need to care about the load index, which is expressed as a number. For our example on the Bridgestone Dueler M/T, its 122 – which is 1,500 kilograms. If there is another figure separated by a slash, that’s the load index if the tyre is used in a dual situation (running them side by side on a rear axle – think big F-trucks). The letter after the load index is the speed rating. Ours is ‘Q’, which gives us 160km/h. Plenty for anything we plan on doing… Probably not going to take our four-wheel drives to the race track!

SPEED RATINGS

Speed Symbol   Maximum speed (km/h)

• N             140
• P             150
• Q             160
• R             170
• S              180
• T              190
• U             200
• H             210
• V             240
• Z              Over 240
• W            270
• Y              300

LOAD INDEX RATING

Construction

There’s usually some good information to be had here, spelt out as plain as day. You can see how many plies are in the tread and the sidewall, and what they are made of. There might also be a ply rating, expressed as a number (usually 8 or 6) followed by ‘PR’. Whilst this rating does not have as much significance for a radial tyre as for of one of bias construction, it’s still something worth noting.

DOT label

DOT stands for Department of Transport, something required on tyres to be sold in the USA. Most of these numbers relate to manufacture locations and batches – but the last four digits are important: They tell you how old the tyre is. The last four digits of the ‘DOT’ serial number are important to you, indicating the week and year of production. For example, a tyre made in the first week of October 2014 would be 3714. Keep in mind, a tyre that is older than six years should be replaced; particularly on a well-used 4X4. You might also see an ‘E4’ code on the side of a tyre, which means it has met European minimum standards.

Anything else?

That’s not all the information, mind you. There is plenty of other data according to the tyre type, where it was made and what it was made for. Asymmetrical tyres will have arrows that indicate correct rotation, for example. You may also find the specific model number of the tyre; in our case, this was a Bridgestone Dueler M/T D674. So if the manufacturer of the tyre makes a couple of different mud-terrains for example, you’ll know exactly which mud-terrain it is.

The post HOW TO: Reading the side of your tyre and how to calculate tyre size appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

We thought it about time to sit down with an actual expert and get the ins and outs of the warm-up and cool-down process on modern four-wheel drive diesel engines. Sit back while we bring you the real information from a mate of ours, Tony at Motovated Turbo and Mechanical in Toowoomba. His 30-odd years of experience should hopefully put some minds at ease. And some myths to bed. We had a good long yarn with Tony about how long you should idle your engine when you first start it up, and after you pull up. And also discussed whether a turbo-timer is a waste of time and money, one way or the other.

Mr4X4: For how long should you warm-up the engine on your diesel tow rig? We’ve heard some of the ‘Grey Nomads’ idling away for some thirty minutes (while they hitch the van and sort the handbrake out). Surely that’s a bit excessive, right?

Tony: Warm-up is a little bit of a personal thing. I feel that you should start the vehicle give it a minute or two then proceed off at a steady pace. Don’t over-rev the vehicle, just take it steady until it warms up to normal on the temp gauge. 30 minutes of warm-up is not necessary and on modern diesels will cause problems with DPF-type vehicles and excessive soot build-up from EGR in the intake, etc.

Mr4X4: Apart from getting oil around the engine, what’s the purpose of warming-up the engine, from an expert’s point of view?

Tony: Warming-up the vehicle is to allow oil to flow around the engine. The oil moves pretty quickly but when the oil is cold it is too thick to lubricate correctly. The other reason for warm-up is to allow all of the moving parts to get up to their correct operating temperatures and expand and contract to the correct clearances. An example of this is if you have a performance engine with forged pistons these may get a rattling noise when they are cold and get a noise called piston slap. It goes away once they are warm and up to temperature as they expand to the correct clearance. It is more about not putting the engine under excessive loads and high RPM while it is cold. If you give a cold engine a hard time you increase the risk of engine wear and/or engine damage.

Mr4X4: Does a longer (than recommended) warm-up time help or hurt the longevity of the engine? Or are they just putting hours on the engine and burning fuel unnecessarily?

Tony: Longer warm-up times on older diesel vehicles does not really hurt the engine as they don’t have the pollution controls of modern diesels. All this does is put hours on the engine and burn fuel unnecessarily. Modern diesels have DPFs and EGR valves, etc. where excessive idle periods can cause these to operate in manners not recommended by the manufacturer. This routine can cause the intake manifolds to soot up more than normal and the DPFs to choke up faster causing more burns and excessive fuel usage. Modern diesels are all computer-controlled; some limit the amount of fuel delivery until the vehicle is warm enough and reduce the performance. Taking off at a steady pace and taking it easy for the first few minutes of the trip will not hurt the engine. Taking off and giving a cold engine high RPMs and high loads unnecessarily will cause excessive wear and damage. Modern diesel vehicles have better cooling systems than those of old and are designed to warm-up the vehicle quickly. Letting the vehicle start and idle for a minute or two will not hurt it and will only help but much more than that is really unnecessary in my opinion. It just causes excessive noise in the caravan park, unnecessary smells, etc. for no gains.

Mr4X4: On cool-down, is there any great point to letting your four-wheel drive idle for five minutes after pulling up? Back in oil-cooled only turbo days, it made sense, but with modern turbos with both water and oil cooling, is there really any point?

Tony: Idle-down really depends on the conditions in which you have been driving. If you have been working it hard right up until you pull up to shut it off, five minutes is definitely worthwhile. If you idle through the town then get to the caravan park and back your van into its spot, it would be cool enough to just shut down, as you have basically done the job of the turbo timer anyway. VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbine) turbos spin at idle and at a fairly high speed compared to the older wastegated turbos. Idle time is more about temperature and allowing the temps to reduce before cool-down.

Mr4X4: As a side question from cool-down, we’ve all seen trucks (like actual trucks, not you 79 Series lot) sit there idling while the driver runs into a shop, or to the loo. Is that more fuel-efficient for them to leave it idle, or is it a cool-down thing, or is it another reason entirely?

Tony: Allowing your vehicle to sit and idle on the side of the road may be helpful if you have been working it hard and you want to stop and let it cool down or to try and keep your batteries charged or the fridge going, air conditioning going for the passengers you’ve left sitting in the car. Running the vehicle for five minutes or so for times like this will not really hurt anything. But if you have already driven through a town and everything has cooled down it is not really necessary to do this like the trucks do. Trucks keep running for a number of reasons: mechanical sympathy on starter motors; keeping the air up to the system for brakes, etc. Systems on trucks are vastly different to the light automotive vehicles we all drive, and as such there are many different reasons for keeping the trucks running. Just remember, that leaving your car running and being more than six metres away from the vehicle can get you in trouble with the local constabulary!

Conclusion

So there you have it; idling your four-wheel drive for more than a minute or two in the morning is not only wasting fuel and a detriment to your engine but will potentially infuriate everyone around you, especially at 5am. This also works for when you’re finally going to idle down once you’re ready to make camp at the end of the day; so it would seem that a turbo-timer isn’t completely useless, but your driving behaviour before you shut your engine down will save you having to get one.

Massive thanks to Tony at Motovated Turbo and Mechanical in Toowoomba. I’ve personally had the pleasure of having Tony do all the turbo and fuel system work on my old 80 Series over the years, and made the nine-hour trek up to Toowoomba from Newcastle anytime I’ve needed anything done to the old girl.

If you need any work on your tow rig, from the turbo to the fuel system and all things mechanical, feel free to drop in on Tony and John at Motovated Turbo and Mechanical, Shed 4/398 Taylor Street,  Toowoomba, QLD 4350, or give them a call on (07) 4598 0033.

The post How long do you really need to warm-up your diesel engine up for? appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

In a rather concerning trend I’ve noticed as of late, there are a lot of people building a ‘battery box’. I absolutely understand the concept behind them; they’re portable, easy to plug-in, can be moved to the different accessories using them, and are a nice and easy DIY jobbie you can do at home. There’s only one problem: by using sealed boxes, you’re basically turning your neat DIY project into a bomb. And I mean that literally.

How exactly am I turning the battery box project into a bomb?!

We’re glad you asked. Most folks probably realise that when you’re charging a lead-acid battery, it gives off hydrogen gas. It’s actually hydrogen and oxygen (two parts hydrogen, one part oxygen – from water; H20). This occurs when your battery voltage goes above about 2.35-volts per cell. In our specific case, your 12-volt lead-acid battery has six cells. So as soon as your charger goes over 14.1-volts (2.35-volts times six cells), it’s generating a hell of a lot of hydrogen gas. That’s why on the side of a lead-acid battery it says to store, use and charge in a ‘well-ventilated area’.

Where this becomes a problem is when you go and buy a ‘sealed’ box or space-case. All of a sudden you’re putting a bunch of 12-volt gear (charger, solar controller, Anderson plugs, ciggy sockets, etc.) in a sealed container that will fill up with hydrogen gas. It doesn’t take a genius to realise that one tiny spark… and the whole thing will go BOOM!

Surely it can’t make that much hydrogen gas?

You’d probably be surprised; hell, I was when I did the research for you good folks. There will need to be a bit of maths but stick with me. It’s generally granted that to fully charge a lead-acid battery, you need to put in about 20 per cent over the recommended Amp Hour (Ah) rating. So 100Ah needs 120Ah put into it to be ‘fully charged’. Each cell of a lead-acid battery will produce 0.42-litres of hydrogen gas for each and every Ah beyond the battery’s capacity.

So the maths look like this:

20Ah x 0.42-litres of hydrogen (per Ah per Cell) x 6 cells = 50.4 litres of H2 or hydrogen gas.

Where this gets really interesting is that to become explosive, hydrogen needs to be in a concentration with air of between just 4.1% and 75%. Yep, 4.1 per cent hydrogen mixed with air will go boom.

From another perspective, we looked up the OHS/legal safety requirement for a battery storage/charging room. We worked out that one 12v battery with six cells in a ‘room’ 1.5ft x 1.5ft x 3ft (the size of the average sealed space case) needs to have the air completely replaced every 7.63 minutes for it to not become explosive.

But I only run AGM batteries, so they’re fine… right?

Sort of. See, the AGM batteries absorb most of the hydrogen and oxygen again and turn it back into water, so they’re reasonably well-sealed, yet they still have vents that will vent some gas. Where this becomes a proper issue is say in two-, five- or eight-years time, your AGM is dead and you’re done with the box and want to change it up, and you put it on Marketplace or Gumtree, and some young bloke comes along with no idea, works out the battery has died and needs to put a new one in, goes and gets himself a lead-acid battery and puts it in the sealed box without a second thought because he can’t afford a you-beaut AGM jobby. See where this is going? That’s where there is an issue. But there is a way to fix this, and not blow yourself up…

Put a vent in it!

You don’t need a fan, and the ability to swap out the air constantly in the box; just make sure when you build it that you cut a couple of holes in the side to let any breeze through the box and for the air to swap out. A hole-saw with a couple of cheap vents from Bunnings will do the trick pretty well. So if you want to do a DIY battery box, put this up there next to putting an appropriate fuse on your power wires. Oh, and make sure your vent is towards the top of the box – hydrogen is lighter than air, so it will float to the top of the enclosure.

Need any more proof? Next time you’re in Supercheap or Jaycar, have a look at the proper battery boxes you can buy; there’s a vent in the lid so that when gas starts to build it vents it over the side of the bottom, and down and out of the box.

Hopefully, this little yarn will help stop you turning your DIY Project into a battery box bomb.

The post Don’t build a battery box the wrong way appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.