Mount Isa in outback Queensland is no more than a big, boring mining town, right? Somewhere to stock up on supplies and then hit the road again? Well, that’s what I was expecting as we headed towards this outback centre on the way to The Gulf Country.

Now, don’t get me wrong, Mount Isa is a bloody huge mining-orientated outback Queensland city, where the main mine has been operating since early-1920, right in the heart of town, extracting copper, lead, zinc and silver for the world’s markets. In fact, Mount Isa claims to be the largest city in the world as it covers a whopping 43,200km² of outback Queensland… but in much of this area there is no population. In fact, just over 40 per cent of the town’s population works in the mining industry in some way, and it is regarded as one of the most cost-efficient mines in the world.

In town there are a few things to see and do, including at the Isa Experience Centre where there’s a mine tour, the Riversleigh Fossil centre and the standard coffee and gift shops. Just up the road in Camooweal St, you can experience the Underground Hospital and Museum centre where back in 1942 this area was built just in case there was a threat from the Japanese. To the north of town, the Leichhardt River was dammed in 1958 to provide a guaranteed water source for the town, forming Lake Moondarra, where you can picnic, do a bit of birdwatching, slip a boat into the water or simply rest under the shady trees around the shoreline. The Lake has been stocked with barramundi and is a go to place for the locals trying to hook the big one. Once you’ve explored these outback Queensland touristy things, and the sunset lookout area that give you views across the city, that’s about it… or so we thought.

After gathering some intel from locals in town, we headed east towards Cloncurry along the Barkley Highway for 65km. A dodgy sign points out a beautiful free-camping spot down beside Corella Dam which was built in 1959 for a nearby uranium mine that’s now been decommissioned. Camping around the dam offers stunning waterfront views which contrast starkly with the harsh outback environment that this area is known for. The road in was pretty good and it led to the dam’s boat ramp, and where most campers seemed to congregate, but with a little exploring there are even better spots if you follow the trails around the dam.

During the cooler months the dam gets pretty packed with those getting away from the cold winters down south and chasing the redclaw that breed here. For those not in the know, redclaw are fresh water yabbies, but on steroids. You’ll need to read up on the regulations as there are bag and size limits on these mini-lobsters. After we tried for days to catch some using meat, we found out that redclaw are vegetarians, and they love overripe fruit and veggies. The dam isn’t used for commercial water storage anymore and we saw lot of local birdlife and fresh water crocs, the later steering clear of the masses and best spotted at dawn or dusk in the more remote parts of the dam. Even if you don’t have a tinny, there are plenty of 4X4 tracks around the dam to go exploring.

Surrounded by the stunning and rugged Selwyn Ranges it’s hard to imagine that this dam was once the lifeblood supporting a once a bustling outback Queensland town in the middle of nowhere. Just 6km away, the now abandoned township and mine area of Mary Kathleen has to be seen to be believed. Back in 1954 uranium was found by accident here and over the next few years a massive amount of material was excavated from the area and sent overseas. Reports say a staggering 9,000,000 tons of ore was processed through the plant. After years of trying to stay afloat, and after a few dodgy trade deals, the mine closed down in 1982, and despite the rehab work, a few corners were cut and dangerous materials have previously leached out of claimed safe areas.

Today it’s all been fixed properly and exploring the staggering open-cut mine and processing areas is just amazing. The buildings are gone now but the infrastructure areas can still be seen where huge concrete pads that once supported massive buildings and tanks are still around. But it’s the open-cut mine that takes your breath away, where a staggering amount of rock has been removed and where you can see the old roads that once circled the mine.

Over the years the mine has filled up with water and the rich mineral based ground has turned it a stunning yet eerie iridescent crystal blue. The water is alive with small fish darting in and around the trees that look like coral in the water some 20-40 feet below the surface. No matter how beautiful the water looks, don’t be tempted to jump in, or you may end up growing a third arm or at the very least losing your hair.

The nearby town was created to support the mine where more than 1000 people made a new life, and it wasn’t long before there was a school, a post office, a hospital, halls, shops and even a movie cinema in Mary Kathleen. Life was good until the mine closed and subsequently the town died, despite an attempt to re-open the mine in the early 1980s. When the mine rehab work was in place the town had to go too, but instead of bulldozing the whole area into a big pit, the town’s buildings were auctioned off and taken away. Today the only things left are the concrete slabs, the streets with kerbs and guttering, and several monuments paying homage to those who once lived here. It’s all gone now but these days this is another area where free camping is allowed.

This area is thick with other mining interests that pre-date Mary Kathleen. There’s a mining trail nearby called the Ballara Heritage Trail; starting midway back to Corella Dam and signposted right from the start, it’s well worth exploring. The road in is pretty easy and offers stunning views with the Argylla Ranges towering over you as you wind your way along. Keep an eye out for the information boards along the way so you don’t miss any points of interest. Around 20km along the trail you’ll find where the old town of Ballara once stood, but now there’s nothing left other than memories and forgotten dreams. A walking trail through the ‘town’ leads down to a rail platform where a narrow-gauge line ran from Ballara down to the mines almost 40km away.

Ore was found in the area in 1904 and another rush was on to stake a claim and hopefully become rich, and with this came miners, families and infrastructure. At the peak of the boom nearly 1500 miners battled the elements here, enduring bloody hot summers, a lack of water and cool winters.

Leaving the old town of Ballara, the road swings westward, following and occasionally crossing the old tramway line. The going gets a little rougher heading this way but it’s well worth the effort as the road turns to 4X4 country dipping down through dry creek beds and over hills as it follows the rough contours of the landscape. Hand-stacked stone bridges, the old ore transfer stage, twisted pieces of steel and rough concrete pylons can be seen on the drive. This was no ordinary tramway – most of the main section was a 3′ 6″ gauge but it reduced to 2′ gauge on the hard, rough and steep sections to allow more traction.

A lone trackside grave pays homage and respect to a lonely miner who worked in the are, and it prompted us to think just how tough life would have been here in this harsh part of outback Queensland. Not far down the track we came across the old settlement of Hightville. Here again there’s not much left, but a sign depicts a picture where there were houses, a school, a hotel and several mines, and it explains more about the history of the place. The sign also points out a 100m-long handcut tunnel located up in the hills; the road is marked as an extreme 4X4 route due to the narrow cuttings, rough terrain and sheer drops along the way, but if you’re game it’s totally worth the effort to find the tunnel 3m-wide and 4m-high tunnel, which was built by a gang of nine men hired on a flat contract rate plus dynamite costs. A small rockfall at the entrance doesn’t allow vehicles to drive through anymore, but you can still appreciate this amazing and heritage-listed piece of engineering on foot.

Wandering through the tunnel you can see evidence of pick marks, blasting holes and the communication wire that still runs through it, as well as a few resident sheath-tail bats enjoying the cool air inside. Out the other side you can view the huge Wee McGregor mine workings where it looks like half the hill has been moved to extract the copper. The road down to the mine is also classed as an extreme 4X4 track, especially after storms washed part of the road away, but walking around the now disused mine area it’s evident it must have been a bustling area in the past. Rehab works took place in 1975 but there’s still plenty to marvel at, and ponder how they got their gear into this severe terrain. Several of the deep (nearly 100m) mines have had safety grates welded over the top but still, looking down into them certainly gave me vertigo.

The tramway line took most of 1914 to complete and then mine work was suspended in 1916 due to a lack of water, then, in 1917, the area was hit with extremely heavy rainfall which caused flooding and damage to the line. Sadly, in late 1917, the mine was closed due to diminishing mineral finds. The gear was sold off and the men paid out. Over the next few years the line was pulled up and the Wee McGregor locomotive ended up on a cane farm.

Throughout the area between Mount Isa and Cloncurry, across the stunning and often harsh outback Queensland ranges, there are several mines and related history dating back before the Mount Isa deposit was found. Random and isolated lone graves, open mine pits and tunnels, plus relics from days gone by – it’s all part of our pioneering history that thankfully has now been protected for years to come.

For details on some travel experience and accommodation options in and around Mount Isa hit this Outback Queensland link and go here for more Mr 4X4 travel stories.

The post Gateway to Outback Queensland appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

***Disclaimer: This trip was done in 2019 before the Coronavirus outbreak had occurred. We strongly encourage our audience to follow guidelines set out to try and limit the spread of the virus. However, we do think now is the perfect time to be planning your next trip for when we are allowed to travel again, and Googs Track should be considered.

It was a memorable moment, staring out over the clear blue waters of the Ceduna coast, enveloped in a gentle cooling breeze. It is a beautiful part of the southern Australian coastline, but this would be the last we would see of it for a while. We had full tanks and a stirring excitement; it was time to kick the tyres and light the fires. Within 10 minutes we had left the Ceduna CBD and hit the dirt, heading north along one of the routes I had wanted to travel for years, Googs Track. It promised to be an almost Simpson-like experience (albeit south-north versus east-west) with the chance to spot and photograph a critter I had been hoping to see in the wild, the Thorny Devil.

The track starts with gentle undulations but soon changes into a classic series of rolling dunes, mostly gentle, with the occasional steeper and taller face. At the Dog Fence, which serves as an entry gate of sorts, we had aired down to 15psi, experience telling us this was going to be the best way to avoid ripping up dune faces and reducing our chance of tyre punctures while enjoying a comfortable ride. It is most undoubtedly 4X4-only country, and the lower pressures were already paying dividends.

Slowly saltbush mallee woodland began to make way for a more semi-arid feel, with spinifex far more prevalent in the understorey. The eucalypts closely line the track in many sections, which was giving our sand flags a hiding. Pat had decided to tow on this trip, so he had plenty of dodging to do. Unless seriously experienced, it would not be advisable to tow along here, and you should be prepared to lower tyre pressures even further if you do.

But this was enjoyable. Seriously enjoyable. There is a serene sense of calm out here, a feeling of being a rare and privileged traveller. In fact, we only encountered three other vehicles over our two-day traverse.

This track has a fascinating history. A man by the name of Stanley Gilbert John Denton (nicknamed ‘Goog’) and his wife Jenny cut this track from 1973 -1976. Why? Well if you believe the tales, it was because he wanted a faster way to get to the Kingoonya Pub up north. But likely, it was so he could have easier access to take livestock to the Trans-Australian Railway system or to satisfy curiosity and explore. Not a single animal ever actually made it to market on this route, however.

Until this point on the track, we had travelled more or less in a straight line, but there were a few promising detours up ahead. The first was Googs Lake to the east of the track. It is only a reasonably short detour, and it is well worthwhile. The first thing you will encounter along this detour is a memorial for Goog and his son Dinger. Over the years, people have added plenty of beer bottles and hundreds of coins to the cracks in the bark of the surrounding trees. It’s a beautiful thing to see that respects are still paid, and the tradition still lives on.

There is a vast camping area alongside the Lake which, much like its near cousin, Lake Gairdner, is mostly a clay and salt pan. Still, it’s pretty cool to see and a great spot if you want to layover for a few days, there’s plenty of space to call your own and remain private, we were shocked to see some fellow campers walk past, as we could see no evidence of their camp at all.

While it had been nearly 30-degrees Celcius during the day, the temp dropped to below freezing during the night; not a good night to be testing a new ultra-lightweight swag, pad and bag combo. I didn’t entirely freeze, but it was far from a comfortable night. I am not sure if was the dripping water in my swag or the sound of Major Mitchell Cockatoos which woke me from my fitful sleep, but I am sure that the latter was the only welcome intruder. Trying to defrost myself in the early morning sun, I was greeted by the sight of Pat exiting his steam-filled hybrid camper, all chipper and smiles after enjoying a hot shower and perfect night of sleep. It turns out he had the heater running all night too. Without an invite, I quickly made myself at home in his mobile bathroom, thawing out nicely in the hot shower.

It was interesting to compare our experiences that night (and morning); I was interested in exploring a hiking style, uber-light experience, saving as much space as possible. Pat, on the other hand, had 13-feet of off-road EzyTrail extravagance; his downside was that he had to tow it, losing out on fuel consumption and capability. Each has its benefits, I guess.

Toward the northern section of the track, there is another worthy detour, Mount Finke. Standing about 200m taller than the relatively flat landscape which surrounds it, it can be seen from afar – there is absolutely no chance of missing this structure.

Once again there is a reasonably large camp area here, (the second and last one along this route) but it’s not as lovely as the one at Googs Lake, with very little shade or privacy. We had arrived here in the afternoon, and after having some lunch and a chat with some other travellers, the crew set to work with the cameras. Unfortunately, one of the drones had a meltdown and disappeared into the distance, never to be seen again; if you are ever out this way, it is somewhere south of the mountain, you might score yourself a drone and our missing data.

Mount Finke was named by British explorer John McDouall Stuart who summited it in 1958, naming it after his friend William Finke. We also decided to climb the steep, rocky slopes to the summit and were rewarded with far-reaching views and the momentoes and plaques left by many, including that of Stuart’s.

It was a nice way to say goodbye to this area. Slowly the dunes disappeared into flat terrain, the sand became dirt, and we had a date for the night; a hot meal and cold beers at the Kingoonya Pub.

DESTINATION DETAILS

• Length: approx. 340km from Ceduna to Kingoonya. Both towns have fuel.
• Dunes: Count ‘em, 363 in total apparently.
• Permits: Ceduna Natural Resources Centre or Ceduna Visitor Information Centre (08) 8625 3144 and (08) 8625 3343, respectively.
• Driving: While there is nothing alarming at all, there are a few decent size dunes on the northern section of the track that require diligence. Sand flags are most definitely recommended. UHF Channel 10 is mandatory.

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Words and images by Scott Mason and Liam Foster: There is a little gem hidden among the ranges in South Australia. I first discovered it years ago. I was a guest of an Isuzu trip there and, although I only got to spend two days on the tracks, I knew I would make plans to revisit. A few years later I had the chance to take Pat there, with last year’s TV show. Well, guess what? Pat also vowed to revisit. Fast-forward 12-ish months and we were back again… Bendleby Ranges.

Bendleby is located south of the Flinders Ranges and the township of Hawker. If you have done the Flinders before you have probably passed close by without even realising it exists. It is a freehold station of some 15,000 hectares and offers up over 170km of off-road tracks, from beginner level to advanced.

You could be easily forgiven for thinking of names like Flinders Ranges, Strzelecki Track, Lake Eyre, Oodnadatta and the Nullarbor when travelling in South Australia, and the beauty is, they are all great places within ‘relatively’ easy reach of each other, depending on where you want to end up. But this is one place you should definitely put on the list. It is close to the beaten path yet isolated, and offers a fantastic experience for the off-road tourer, no matter your style of camping and driving. But more on that later … let me tell you about our latest adventure.

I don’t know who was more excited to be back – myself or Pat. The station owner’s son, Charlie, had called me up and told me about a new track he had just cut in along with his dad Warren. It sounded serious. “Yeah, Dad could not drive the dozer back up it” was Charlie’s laconic response. He even sent a video to prove it. Crikey, this was going to be exciting. Here we were presented with a fresh cut track, that had never seen the treads of a 4WD before, and they wanted us to be the first to drive and name it.

While it seems stupid even to contemplate this, I need to dispel some drama here. We were not going to be driving uphill, no, this is a one-way track for the public, one which sees the steepest parts heading in a downhill direction. We were not going to attempt outdriving a dozer. We were planning to drive it as you guys would.

With another warm and genuine greeting out of the way at the check-in hut and with their young bloke circling excitedly on his little motorbike (pretty sure he wanted to be on TV doing a jump), we made for our digs. This, by the way, is how everyone is greeted. Drive in and stop at a little building near the family homestead, it is a small shop of sorts with some nice local produce and some essentials. This is also your stepping-stone to receiving your directions to camp and a map of the myriad tracks on offer.

In the past, I have stayed in the remote bush camps, the main campground (which also has showers and powered sites), and the shearers’ quarters. This time we were completing the full circle and staying at the old family homestead. What a lovely old building it is too, and we were looking forward to a shower later on.

With plenty of light left in the day, we wasted no time and headed up into the hills to meet our challenge.

Well, we had not even reached the new track, and I was in trouble. The track leading up to the ‘difficult’ one had caught me out. Negotiating a technical uphill section, one of my rear tyres flicked out a large rock, subsequently, the tyre fell into the hole created, and I had diffed out on a large mass of rock. I was stuck. With glee Pat backtracked and we laid out a snatch strap for a gentle tug out. Pat and I take a little too much pleasure in seeing the other get caught out, a little bit of friendly competition. Unfortunately, despite some rock placing beforehand, the back of the diff housing was damaged, the removable access plate had bent backward, and I was now slowly leaking diff oil. Nevermind, I would fix that later. Onward and upwards.

Reaching the summit, we got our first look at the new track; a barely discernible path that crossed a saddle before reaching a sharp peak then dropping off the face of the earth. The view from the peak was stunning, but the precipitous drop down got the blood pumping. This is where it gets steep. Moments later I watched as Pat’s Amarok disappeared sharply over the side, before re-appearing on the next less steep ridge, along with some wheelspin and in a nose-up position.

This was exciting. Heading down myself I quickly realised that this would be a tricky one to drive the other way; the steep incline, combined with the sharp scrabbly rock, would not allow for enough purchase for upward momentum. As I travelled up the next ridge, it was with a smile that I realised how lucky we are to have a place like this. A stunning station with tracks for all, and while we had just driven the gnarliest of them, we were also looking forward to driving the others over the next few days. But not before some bush repairs…

Early the next morning, Charlie arrived at our accommodation and informed me of a drive-over pit out in the yard. Within the hour, the diff cover was removed and had been hammered back into shape. A dose of some mastic sealant and the cover was back on and the diff ready for a top-up. Charlie was a great help and provided the tools we were not carrying, along with the fluids.

That is the great thing about station stays, the families that operate them have not only a wealth of bush-repair experience (borne out of necessity), but they are more than happy to help out in any way they can. You won’t find that kind of service in a State or National Park.

I have only touched on the other tracks available so far, but here is a quick rundown. Getting to the station and most of the trails around the station, and the North-South Range, can be easily driven in 2WD. The main camps, homestead, shearers’ quarters and most of the isolated bush camps are the same. The map you receive clearly indicates the track difficulty rating. Most of the sunset viewing areas can be easily reached with 4WD, and there are a few side tracks that are more challenging. The Bendleby Range on the eastern side of the property offers incredible views and is much steeper in nature. This is where the more challenging tracks lie; one of the more notable ones is Billy Goat Ridge. Billy Goat, much like its Victorian namesake, is a great technical climb that requires low range and some good wheel placement. It also offers stunning views and is part of a fantastic driving loop.

If you are camping, it is great to know that you have access to amenities around the property for a freshen-up, and there are three main amenity blocks available, in addition to the scattered local long-drops at the remote camps. Firewood is even provided as part of an eco-friendly attempt to stop the surrounding vegetation being thinned out. The station is Eco-Australia certified. The timber is imported from down south of the state and is quality hardwood – perfect for those warm smoke-free bush telly sessions.

There are a stack of bushwalking tracks, and you can get a list of the flora and fauna so far recorded on the property if you are into photography or learning about the environment.

Bendleby has a lot to offer the 4WD, RV or nature enthusiast. It is a worthy destination in its own right; oh, and make sure you check out the two new signs atop the new track, Pat’s Peak and Mt Scott.

ABOUT THE FAMILY Bendleby is owned by Jane and Warren Luckraft, along with Charlie and his wife Kylie and their young children. They have spent years developing the property to the point it is today. Times have been tough for not only them but also many other communities in the region, with barely any rainfall over the past three years. This has not stopped them making further developments to the station, despite the numbers of livestock (and income) being reduced to avoid overgrazing. Currently feed is being imported. The whole family are friendly and welcoming; they are the real deal. Warren has a turn-of-phrase and sharp wit that will likely have you in tears of laughter at some point; in typical outback style, he does not dabble in political correctness… it is all part of the charm.

This article first appeared in Pat Callinan’s 4X4 Adventure Issue 40; and aired in Season 12, Episode 1.

The post Bendelby Ranges: A four-wheeler’s paradise appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

Carnarvon National Park is located in central Queensland about 300km west of Rockhampton and 600km north-west of Brisbane. The Gorge and Mount Moffat are best accessed via Injune if travelling from the south. Salvator Rosa and Ka Ka Mundi are best accessed from Springsure, on the northern side of the park. It will take you a number of days (or weeks) to visit all areas.

• When to Visit Any time of year, although summer can get very hot. Autumn, winter and spring are probably the best choice for most people.
• Fuel and supplies Most of the larger towns have fuel and supplies. Take plenty of drinking water, otherwise you may have to treat tank or river water.
• Where to stay The Gorge section has the most accommodation choices with a well-stocked caravan park at Takarakka, or more self-reliant camping with spectacular views at Sandstone Park. Both are at the eastern entrance to the Gorge. The other camping areas within the park are more remote with drop toilets and water generally available from the creeks or perhaps a tank.
• Difficulty Good gravel roads when dry but roads are susceptible to rain and flooding so check the forecast before heading out.
• Websites www.npsr.qld.gov.au/nationalparks/

Spyglass Peak or The Tombs are not locations you will find in Carnarvon Gorge, but they are part of the same National Park. Most people have heard of Carnarvon Gorge in Central Queensland, and many of you have been there, I’m sure. I first visited as a teenager and have been back many times since. Last winter, I visited part of Carnarvon National Park that I hadn’t been to before.

Carnarvon is a bit like that; just when you think you’ve seen it all and start thinking of other places to visit, you realise there is more to it. Many people drop in for a few days on their way between the southern states and the tropical north. The Gorge is well located for this and provides an oasis among a sea of Mulga.

With Cycads dominating the landscape, Cabbage Palms stretching skyward and Platypus paddling quietly in the deep holes of Carnarvon Creek, the Gorge is a fabulous space to explore. The sheer cliffs of white sandstone reflect the sunlight into the main gorge. Slot canyons escape much of the light, encouraging bright green moss to cover their cool, dark surfaces that weave for hundreds of metres away from the main gorge.

Small Yellow Belly and Catfish ply the crystal-clear waters, fed from springs flowing from the many layers of sandstone. The water that emerges out of the rock fell as rain many thousands of years ago when the landscape was home to its original inhabitants. These cliffs also aid as a replenishment area for the great artesian basin, taking in water as well as releasing it.

Millions of years of water flow have eroded through the top layer of recent basalt (30 million years old) down through 600 vertical metres of sandstone to the uppermost layer of the Bowen Basin. This layer dates back around 240 million years and contains the world’s largest deposits of bituminous coal. You’ve probably heard about the Bowen Basin before.

It takes a few hours to climb from the gorge floor to the basalt capping, so most people spend their time enjoying the cool lush surroundings of the lower gorge. If you have never explored the Moss Garden or Ward’s Canyon, these are places you should visit. Ward’s Canyon is home to the very rare King Fern with its fronds up to five metres in length.

Water is responsible for another natural location not to be missed. The Amphitheatre is a spectacularly deep chasm with one small entrance through a narrow crevice. There is now a steep, steel ladder providing access to the entrance. Over the years, there have been many attempts to provide access, however all have succumbed to rock fall and rushing water. The current over-engineered staircase may just last the distance.

One of the most notable attractions of the Gorge is the abundance of Aboriginal stencil art that can be seen at some beautiful locations just off the main Gorge.  The Art Gallery and Cathedral Cave are significant Aboriginal sites that remind us of the thousands of years of Aboriginal history when different tribes used to gather in the Gorge for special ceremonies.

Only 30km away as the crow flies is the Mount Moffat section of the Carnarvon National Park. It is there you can see the only known full-body stencil of an adult figure in the world. The meaning of the stencil has been lost long ago.

Aboriginal peoples first inhabited this cave over 9,000 years ago and for some other nearby caves, habitation goes back nearly 20,000 years. The area known as The Tombs was a place where deceased members of the Bidjara people were wrapped in burial cylinders of Budgeroo bark, before being placed in small rock chambers. Unfortunately, none of the remains are still in place, having been stolen by visitors over the last century.

The European history of the Mount Moffat area is that of exploration, cattle grazing and an infamous murder by the Kenniff brothers. They are said to have murdered a constable and station manager, before incinerating their bodies and packing them into saddlebags. The blood of the local Aboriginal Bidjara people also flowed during bloody massacres after clashes with settlers in the 1800s. The area has had both a violent human and geological past, which is belied by its now peaceful and subtle beauty.

Although geographically close, the drive between Mount Moffat and the Gorge is around 300km, which helps to explain the difference in visitor numbers. Mount Moffat requires a 4X4 to access the campsites and to explore the headwaters of Carnarvon Creek. The lack of visitors adds attraction as you may well have the place to yourself. We particularly enjoyed sitting quietly in Kookaburra Cave, listening to the sounds of the surrounding forest and feeling the natural space. Not far from here, is a tall orange and white pillar of sandstone rising out of the forest.

On the northern side of the Carnarvon National Park are two more sections, again a long drive from the Gorge. Travelling west out of Springsure, Ka Ka Mundi has an unimproved camping area with no marked walking trails. If you are willing to travel by foot across the untracked landscape, you are sure to be surprised by what you might find. Many of the rock overhangs have Aboriginal stencils that are aging with the forest and very few visitors.

A little further to the north-west is the Salvator Rosa section of Carnarvon. In July 1846, the explorer Thomas Mitchell described the landscape:

“The hills overhanging it surpassed any I had ever seen in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals in ruins; others forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and contrasted with the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a fine stream in the foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole country. It was a discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. … I gave to the valley the name of Salvator Rosa.” – Thomas Mitchell 1846

Mitchell described the landscape well and certainly captured the essence of the rocky hilltops. He didn’t name the oft-photographed Spyglass Peak with its 10-metre hole near its summit. Perhaps he refers to it as the perforated mass. The rock is fragile and not suitable for scrambling or climbing, lest you want a tumble worthy of Jack and Jill. Some tracks follow the base around Spyglass Peak and another with a short climb to the top of Homoranthus Hill that gives a tremendous 360° view of the surrounding hills. The hill has a strange name but is so named after the rare shrub with dainty pink flowers found on its flanks.

Nearby is the Louisa Creek Junction with the Nogoa River. It is a short walk from the car, and if you walk quietly, there is a good chance you will see some of the birdlife, including Egrets and Herons, feeding on the fish and frogs that enjoy the permanent water running from Belinda Spring.

The Carnarvon National Park is a must-see destination that provides visitors of all sorts a satisfying spot to explore. Be it short track walks or the six-day Great Walk carrying everything on your back, or a 4X4 trip out to Mount Moffat, there are definitely places you haven’t seen yet. The deeper into the park you go, the more you will want to see what is around the next bend or through the eroding sandstone arch.

“Travelling along the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of sparkling water to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could only account for the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a season, by the support of many springs.” – Thomas Mitchell 1846

Carnarvon is a place carved and created by water, in the middle of dry land often gasping for water.

The post Destination: Carnarvon National Park appeared first on Pat Callinan's 4X4 Adventures.

The Spirit of Amarok returns to Werribee in Melbourne to pitch teams against each other over a level playing field of standard Amarok 4X4 utes. Challenges involve speed, terrain and technical aspects. Participants will have their precision and control tested by the extreme driving conditions in rally, technical and regularity stages.

Rally champion Sarel van der Merwe ‘Supervan’ created the event 12 years ago as the Spirit of Africa Trophy, as the toughest competition for the average non-professional driver to test their mettle in.

2018 saw two teams head to South Africa to represent Australia. Australia placed second at the international event, behind South Africa and ahead of Botswana. This year let’s show them how good we really are! To enter yourself and a mate in the Spirit, you must register your interest on Volkswagen’s Spirit of Amarok website.

Competitors will have Supervan and our own resident Amarok guru and former competitor Pat Callinan providing expert guidance and advice. You don’t need your own 4X4, all competition vehicles are provided by VW to ensure all teams have equal footing. The vehicles will be the Amarok Core 4X4 and Core V6 depending on the trial stage.

Melbourne 4X4 Training Centre at Werribee will host the competition on the 11^th and 12^th of April with the two highest scoring teams selected to fly to South Africa for the world championship.

Registration is open now for the 2019 Spirit of Amarok!

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Permits

The price of permits will increase as of the 1st of January 2019, to fall in line with other local accessible beaches, namely Blacksmiths Beach.

A range of permits are available:

• Three-day permit $33
• Annual permit $88
• Annual pensioner permit $44
• Annual RVA $88 (for conditionally registered quads/motorbikes)
• Replacement permit $20

Permits are available from the usual places including:

• 24-hour Metro Service Station (Williamtown), Corner Nelson Bay Road & Lavis Lane.
• 24-hour BP Service Station (Salt Ash), Corner Richardson & Nelson Bay Road.
• BP Service Station (Anna Bay), 135 Gan Gan Road.
• Tackle Power (Mayfield West), Shop 2/15 Murray Dwyer Circuit.
• Out of Town 4WD (Barnsley), 65 Northville Drive.
• ARB (Lambton), 89 Griffiths Road.
• Port Stephens Visitor Centre (Nelson Bay), 60 Victoria Parade.
• NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service (Nelson Bay), 12B Teramby Road (during business hours).

Camping

Camping on Stockton Beach has been illegal since major storms washed a fair proportion of the beachfront away in 2012. Unrestricted camping is relegated to history now, however the Ganyamalbaa Camping Trial opens on the 15th of February 2019. Bookings are available from the 1st of February. Booking and payment must be made online, prior to arriving, via the Worimi Conservation Lands website.

Initially there will be a total of 15 remote campsites, allowing a maximum of eight campers per site. All sites are located south-west of Tin City. There is no other camping allowed on Worimi land at this stage. Conditions and locations are able to be changed as part of the trial to best preserve the environment, especially since the dunes are ever-changing, and to respect the traditional use of the lands.

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LNP member for Clayfield, Tim Nicholls, showed concern in Parliament that the company would tarnish Australia and particularly Queensland’s tourist reputation. Mr Nicholls went on to accuse the company of ripping off tourists in an “unscrupulous, unfair, fraudulent” and “well-rehearsed” scam.

According to this ABC report the ACCC has been investigating due to the large volume of complaints fielded against Australian 4WD Hire.

Councillor’s accusations are well-founded

As the ABC has reported, Australian 4WD Hire has been forced to back down on claims of negligence, speeding, tampering and wrongdoing on behalf of several hirers, each having received astonishing five-figure demands and litigation.

One report is of a couple who became bogged and hiked out to find mobile phone reception and organise help. Overnight high tidal flows damaged the stuck vehicle causing it to be written-off. The couple had purchased insurance against accident damage, however Australian 4WD Hire demanded $54,000 instead of the insurance excess. Against assurances made by Australian 4WD Hire, the Brisbane Magistrate’s Court found the vehicle was only insured for third party property damage.

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The world’s most remote music festival will reverberate for the 7th time, with 2019 featuring the sonic awesomeness of…

Midnight Oil! The Living End! Kasey Chambers!

Three fantastic headliners. We know seeing Midnight Oil at Big Red has long been on the wishlist for organisers and adventurers alike.

More than just the music, there’s scenic helicopter flights, the Royal Flying Doctor Service Bashville “Drags” or if hilarious blokes in skirts hurtling down hills isn’t your thing you can don your best duds and compete in the Fashions in the Desert competition! Proceeds from the fashion comp and drags go to keeping the RFDS flying and servicing our remote communities.

Take part in some indigenous craft-making, stir up the dust in desert boot scooting. Are we going for another record in 2019? Wallop a volleyball in the Big Red Beach Volleyball games. Plenty of excitement for everyone.

It’s time to start planning your desert crossing now whether by 4X4 or flying in, or even catching the Rock’n’Roll Charter Bus if you don’t want to drive yourself! Camping is on site at ‘Bashville’ or in Birdsville itself.

The 2019 Birdsville Big Red Bash will be held again on the 16th to the 18th of July 2019.
Volunteer applications open today, while tickets go on sale on the 7th of December. Set a reminder as they’ll be selling fast!

Will you be belting out Blue Sky Mine with the Oils? Tell us your favourite songs from the headliners!

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10 years in the making, the route leads from Mundaring to Albany, said to provide an alternative to driving the highway. The Track, as it is known, visits Dwellingup, Collie and Boyup Brook along the way. Visitors that don’t wish to camp can stay in accommodation, or pick up supplies and enjoy a pub lunch en-route. There’s also many activities along the way including the Hotham Valley Railway in Dwellingup.

Congratulations to the Four Wheel Drive Association of Western Australia for pulling this fantastic adventure together.

The track is predominately unsealed tracks and trails. Conditions do vary due to weather, but is generally passable by 4X4s, camper trailers and some all-wheel-drive vehicles. There are some short stints on bitumen to link between the more scenic tracks.

Although 900km in length, The Track can be accessed in stages making for easy day trips or longer tours. The objective is to extend  The Track to a total of 4500km in a circular loop taking in Kalgoorlie and the Mid West regions too. The 4WD Association hopes to have the extended trip open this time next year.

There is concern about the spread of a pathogen that kills native plants being spread by 4X4s, as it is often carried in mud on vehicles. All users are recommended to thoroughly wash the underside of their car (and trailer if towing) so as to not spread the dieback pathogen.

There is no map published of the route, to get the GPS coordinates for The Track, visit the Four Wheel Drive Association of WA website here

Check out Emma George’s video below!

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There’s a host of rules and regulations out there regarding use of mobile phones in cars. Can’t do this, can’t do that, but what can you do legally? All the states have slightly different iterations but it all boils down much the same, with the fines and points being the biggest difference.

How can I use my phone?

So what is the deal? You can use your phone as you see fit, only if you are parked. This means pulled over out of the traffic, with the parking brake engaged and engine off.
You can receive or make a call if your phone is in a commercially designed and manufactured cradle fitted as per the manufacturer’s instructions and not blocking the view through the windscreen, AND the phone is using a handsfree system that doesn’t require the phone to be manipulated by the driver. Some states allow the driver to swipe the screen to accept or reject a call. At no time can you have the phone on your body to use it.

What if I don’t have a cradle?

As the driver, the phone can’t be in your hand, resting on your leg or wedged between shoulder and neck. The driver can’t use the phone if the passenger is holding it. Some states allow the driver to pass the phone to their passenger without otherwise manipulating the phone.

Here is NSW’s take on the rules:

If using an iPhone that is resting on the passenger seat or dash, Siri can’t legally help you.
You can’t read a text message or email, even a preview, while the vehicle is not parked. You can’t have Siri or another app read the text message or email aloud to you. You cannot reply using a voice to text app or Siri either. Video messages are absolutely not allowed either.

GPS Navigation

Many of us use our phones for navigation. This can be done legally, but again the phone must be in a cradle as described above, with emphasis on not blocking the view from the driver’s seat or causing distraction.

Now don’t get your knickers in a knot: The police and other emergency services are exempt from these rules. If you want to have a cry about that, remember, police are also allowed to drastically exceed the speed limit, have blue lights on their cars, wield hand guns and take your licence away.
For more information or clarification, the Keep Your Eyes On The Road is an excellent resource, however each state and territory’s own roads and transport authority’s website are the most up to date and accurate.

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