Adventure can be found closer than you think, Mt Isa may just be Queensland’s best kept secret
Many miles from any other city on earth, Mount Isa is well known as a mining town and the rodeo capital of Australia. But did you know that it also lays claim to having the longest main street in the world? Yep, the stretch of Barkly Highway that runs between Mount Isa and Camooweal (which is actually a suburb of Mount Isa) runs for a whopping 188 kilometres.
Interesting facts aside, you might also be surprised to learn that Mount Isa is actually a 4X4 playground and we’re going to share with you some of the secrets of this Outback Queensland icon.
You don’t even have to leave Mount Isa to find 4X4 tracks
You don’t have to go far from Mount Isa to go off-road. In fact, you can even 4X4 smack in the middle of town. Accessed from a road in town, thus known as the Enterprise Road track, explore the rocky, shale ridges dotted with ghost gums and spinifex to take in Mount Isa’s skyline, which is nothing short of fascinating with the mines and surrounding hills dominating the landscape.
While you’re here, visit the Hard Times mine for an underground tour to learn how it works and see incredible mineral specimens both big and small. If getting down and dirty in the mine shaft is not your thing, visit the Old Mount Isa Hospital, a museum-type set-up as a throwback to a bygone but very important era. You see, when Darwin was bombed in 1942, Mount Isa built their own hospital to treat the injured and what better place to house hospital beds than in an area that was both hidden and already built – underground in the mines.
Head east to explore the old mining town of Mary Kathleen
Heading east, the old mining town of Mary Kathleen can be found around halfway between Mount Isa and Cloncurry. Today, the location is a working cattle station but in times gone by, Mary Kathleen was a booming mining town. Now, all that remains are concrete slabs where once stood houses and businesses.
From here, a poorly maintained 4X4 bitumen road with plenty of potholes leads to an abandoned Uranium mine site, once operated by Rio Tinto. Although the water boasts a stunning blue colour and will make for great photos, bear in mind that the fish don’t swim in it and the birds don’t drink from it. These days, efforts would be made to bring the site back to as close to its natural state as possible but given how long ago this one was abandoned, it remains a massive hole in the ground.
Enjoy the oasis that is Lawn Hill (Boodjamulla) National Park
From Mary Kathleen, drive four hours north to Adels Grove campsite. You can’t help but notice the terrain change from the dry surrounding Mount Isa to an oasis of trees and water crossings. Adels Grove is well set up with a camp kitchen, pizza ovens, fuel and amenities. The best part? Lawn Hill Creek runs right through it and you can absolutely take a dip in its cooling waters.
The jewel of the crown here is Lawn Hill gorge and rather than drive 10 minutes to reach it, hire a kayak from Adels and get there via a leisurely 1-kilometre paddle instead. Despite the fact that there is a known family of freshwater crocs in the area, it’s considered one of the best swimming spots in north Queensland.
Don’t miss your chance to spot the unique archer fish, native to northern Australia and South East Asia. These cheeky specimens are known for their spitting ability. They gulp a mouthful of water and then peek out to spit it at their prey, usually an insect, knocking it into the water where it can quickly be devoured before it has a chance to recover. They’ve got pretty good aim and will jump up and snatch food right out of your hand.
Riversleigh World Heritage Site is 25 million years in the making
Hit the road southeast on Riversleigh Road and it’s not long before you’ll see an off-road track heading up a hill. Even just the slightest elevation out here provides amazing views as the surrounding landscape is flat and seemingly endless.
Riversleigh World Heritage Site is your next stop, a fascinating area that required a specific set of circumstances and 25 million years in the making. Here you can walk around and view the fossil remains of the creatures that inhabited this part of our great land many millions of years ago.
Camooweal Caves are amazing
Heading south from Riversleigh towards the tiny town of Camooweal on the Barkley Highway, you’ll come pretty close to the Northern Territory border here. The highlight here is the Camooweal Caves, an unusual cave system that appears as deep holes in the ground in an otherwise flat and arid plain. A short 70-metre return walk will take you to the entrance of Little Nowranie Cave and a 220-metre return track will take you to the Great Nowranie Cave.
You won’t find stalactites and stalagmites in these caves though as they’re not made from limestone. Rather, these caves feature dolomite and the caves and sinkholes formed when water percolated through 500 million-year-old layers of this dolomite, creating caverns linked by vertical shafts up to 75 metres deep. The caves are not accessible to visitors.
Back at Mount Isa
Back at Mount Isa, head out of town for some true secrets of Outback Queensland that only the locals know about. Around 5km east of Mount Isa off the Barkly Highway, some 4X4 tracks will take you to Warrigal Waterhole, aka Painted Rock. This indigenous art site features mainly stick figure style paintings.
Further offroading adventures in a southeast direction will see you at the Wee Macgregor Mine Tunnel, the only example of a railway tunnel west of the Great Dividing range. The tunnel was built by hand and completed in 1915 to get ore from one side of the hill to the other and yes, you can absolutely walk through it. From the tunnel, it’s only a short drive to the crumbling remains of the original Wee Macgregor Mine Site.
From Wee Macgregor, head south to Fountain Springs. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the ‘Outback Crack’, a giant split in the rock showcasing the waterhole known as Fountain Springs. The famous scene in the Crocodile Dundee movie where Sue (played by Linda Kozlowski) bends down to fill her water canteen and is saved from a croc by Mick (played by Paul Hogan) was filmed here. You’ll be pleased to know there are no actual saltwater crocs here.
A favourite with Mount Isa locals, but a little hard to find because it’s not signposted, is The Granites. A collection of boulders stacked high that show off at sunset when the sun’s rays hit the rocks at just the right angle.
It is here that you’ll find a rock seat and a makeshift rock table – there’s plenty around – and whip out the cheese, crackers and your choice of drop to celebrate one hell of an amazing trip that will undoubtedly, leave you appreciating Outback Queensland and her secrets just that little bit more.
