Sydney To Melbourne On The Dirt

I struggle to think of a drive that bores me more than going from Sydney to Melbourne on the Hume Highway, it’s about as interesting to me as doing my tax return, and even that might be giving it a bit too much credit. Sure, it gets the job done, but it’s hardly the kind of trip that leaves you with stories to tell around the campfire. That’s why, we decided to find our own way from Sydney to Melbourne, a more interesting way. Along the dirt.   

Our Fords took us well beyond the usual blacktop, straight into the heart of some of Australia’s most stunning regions. As part of Season 16, available in full on the MR4X4 app, we ventured along hidden backroads, remote trails, and endless dirt tracks, uncovering rugged landscapes between these two cities. But for this article, I’m zeroing in on some real gems—the alpine stretches where the air is fresh enough to bottle (don’t laugh, it’s a real thing), the terrain tests your skill, and the scenery is second to none. 

Exploring the Aussie Alps 

We kicked things off as close as we felt comfortable with to Sydney, out the back of the Blue Mountains. It’s an area full of dirt roads, and almost all of them lead somewhere absolutely beautiful. Of all of them though, we chose the Cowmung River Fire Trail in the Kanangra-Boyd National Park. Cruising at around 1200 metres above sea level with incredible cave networks at either end of it, this track is a hidden gem—remote enough to give you that real sense of adventure, but not so far off the beaten path that it feels like a mission.  

From there, our journey led us to Deua National Park, where we found a camp for the night and started the next day with an obligatory swim before beginning our journey onward to the Bendethera Valley. Hanging Mountain serves up views that are hard to beat, with sweeping panoramas over endless stretches of dense bush, rolling hills, and distant peaks that seem to go on forever. It’s the kind of place where you really get a sense of the vastness and raw beauty of the Aussie landscape. 

Pushing onwards and upwards 

The drive to the campground was unsealed but in no way hard, instead tricky challenges were replaced with views on top of views as we climbed our way through gorgeous scenery of sheer mountains and regenerated bush after fires had passed through. Most importantly, the grass trees (Xanthorrhoea) were out in full force, making Pat a very happy man. 

As with all climbs, what goes up must come down. As we descended into valley floors, we were sure to stop and let our brakes and running gear cool down before attempting water crossings to minimise the risk of hot metal being suddenly cooled and thus warping or cracking. 

Descents and water crossings out of the way, we rolled into the stunningly green Bendethera Valley Campground. The history here is full to the brim with tales of pioneering families who settled in this remote part of Deua National Park, and one of the most colourful stories involves a stolen horse, some turkeys, and a bit of frontier justice. 

In the late 1800s, the George family, who were some of the first European settlers in the area, established a homestead here. Life in such a remote location was challenging, and the settlers had to be resourceful and self-sufficient. The Georges, like many others, relied on their livestock for survival, with cattle, horses, and even turkeys being essential to their way of life. 

According to local legend, a horse was stolen from the George family’s property, a serious crime in those days, especially in such an isolated area where livestock was an absolute lifeline. The George family, determined to retrieve what was theirs, set out on horseback to track down the thief. 

During the pursuit, the Georges came across a man who not only had the stolen horse but also had a flock of turkeys with him. Turkeys were a valuable commodity, and it’s said that the thief had planned to use them as a food source while on the run. However, the Georges weren’t just skilled in tracking—they were also known for their toughness and resolve. They managed to apprehend the man, reclaim their horse, and round up the turkeys. 

The Snowy Mountains 

Our entrance to the Snowy Mountains was just as you’d expect… except without the snow. It was steep, stunning, and serene. We had a warm welcome from the local wildlife, with roos everywhere you looked, but Mother Nature’s embrace was not as gentle as it seemed. Recent weather events had forced rivers on the Bicentennial National Trail to swell and made crossing them impossible, so we chucked a U-ey and looked for another way around. After whipping out our maps we opted to head to the idyllic village of Corryong, home to the Man from Snowy River Festival. With the detour handled, we were back on the dirt. This time choosing to tackle the Scrubby Creek Track, a gorgeous drive in the heart of the Nariel Valley. Though steep, it’s in bloody good condition, and made for a cracking wheel.  

Mountains of fun, mountains of carnage 

After almost entire day driving thanks to our unexpected detour, we finally hit Mt Pinnibar Track—and boy did it hit back. The track is tough on a good day, but this time, it felt like it was out to get us. The recent rains had turned the place in to a deeply rutted mud slide, there’s really no other way to put it. 

The carnage all started when I picked the wrong line and came to an abrupt halt, with diesel fumes leaking into the cabin. I knew exactly what had happened. When I jumped out to check, my worst fears were confirmed: I’d stoved in the fuel tank, and it was leaking badly. We managed to fix it by squashing soap in the cracks of the tank which amazingly, worked. With no choice but to stay put and nurse the wounded Everest, Pat and Sam continued ahead, hoping they’d have better luck. 

Sam with the Club 4X4 Everest struggled with the ascent, so Patski took the wheel and got it up the track. It was smooth(ish) sailing for them after that, or so they thought. But on the way back, things took a turn for the worse. On a tricky slope in a precarious spot, Patski managed to put the Ranger on its side. Thankfully, the ARB brush bars did their job, and the Ranger escaped without any panel damage, but it took a massive winch session to get it back on all fours. 

Although the mission of reaching the top was largely accomplished it cemented one thing in my mind: Mt Pinnibar Track in the wet is no joke. It’s one of those tracks that demands respect, with steep climbs, rough ruts, and breathtaking views that are properly hard-earned. 

Graves, Ranges and Dropped Jaws 

Located near Dargo in the Victorian High Country, Dog’s Grave marks where a drover’s loyal dog, Boney, was buried in the 1860s. It’s a humble tribute to the old pioneers and their four-legged mates who carved out a life in this tough land. The site is a bit off the beaten path, but it’s a must-see if you’re keen to connect with the area’s past. As we paid our respects, we couldn’t help but joke that no one would go to this much trouble for a cat. 

With a visit to man’s best friend out of the way we jumped back in the Ford’s and began making our way to the Blue Rag Range. Along the way we found ourselves on the Precipice Plain, which is certainly the party piece of Dinner Plain track and such a joy to wheel our way up to. It was proper technical driving thanks to the recent rain, which was still falling as we tackled it. Precipice Plain would make a perfect campsite in the dry and is well worth checking out. 

With a time schedule to stick to we chose to continue on for a few more hours of driving before setting up camp for the night. The next day we awoke and were on the tracks and in 4-Low within 10 minutes, dead keen to send the convoy up the iconic Blue Rag Range. Back in the day Blue Rag could be a seriously tough track, then it was graded into something most 4X4 owners could drive, it’s steep and you will need to pick your lines but it’s not impassable if you have an idea of what you’re doing, even as a relative newbie. In terms of views, it’s probably one of the longest alpine tracks that offers such unobstructed views out every window. It’s a seriously special spot and one that’ll leave your jaw dropped no matter how many times you’ve been there before. 

Blue Rag To Billy Goat Bluff And Beyond

With one of Australia’s most spectacular tracks ticked off it was time to tackle another one, Billy Goat Bluff track. The Billy Goat Bluff Track is the real deal—a gnarly, steep ascent that’s not for the faint-hearted, or those afraid of heights. Located near the township of Licola it’s one of the toughest tracks in the Victorian High Country. The climb is steep, with sharp switchbacks and rocky sections that push both you and your 4X4 to the very edges of your comfort zones. But when you finally crest that summit, the views are nothing short of epic—with an incredible mountain range on a backdrop of blue sky stretching as far as the eye can see. Last season you saw us tackle it from the top down, this time we climbed it, and geez did it make for a different drive. Going down was certainly a far easier drive compared to the climb, but the climb was a lot more of an experience. The good news is, it doesn’t matter which direction you choose to do Billy Goat Bluff, the views remain just as stunning. 

Our final alpine stops before the terrain flattened out were Jamieson and Woods Point. Jamieson is a small, historic town in the Victorian High Country, nestled at the junction of the Jamieson and Goulburn Rivers. Known for its gold rush history, Jamieson still retains a bunch of its rustic charm with its preserved 19th-century buildings and relaxed atmosphere. Woods Point is a classic Aussie bush town, once booming with gold fever, it’s now a quiet, almost forgotten spot that’s full of character. The old pubs, relics, and buildings give it a really interesting vibe, dare I say it, it almost feels a bit outback-y. Getting there is half the fun, with winding tracks and dense bushland all around. It’s a top spot for 4X4ers, campers, and anyone keen on a bit of history and adventure in the rugged heart of Victoria. 

From Woods point we made our way as close as we dared to Melbourne, ending our dirt road run at the Ada Tree, just outside of the city. If you’ve got a keen sense of adventure, you should definitely consider tackling Sydney to Melbourne on this dirt, or if you haven’t got as much time on your hands – pick which bits interest you the most. 

To see how we got to the Ada Tree or any other parts of our adventure, you can catch all episodes of Season 16 in long form on the MR4X4 app. We’ve also made the entire route for this trip easy to follow by loading it into Google Maps for you. You can find the link to the route on the MR4X4 website!