The ‘Mark III’ Ranger Rover, known as the L322, was available between 2002 and 2012, going through many updates and changes as the years wore one. After the ‘Classic’ Range Rover redefined comfort, capability and styling for the 4X4, and inadvertently pioneered the ‘SUV’ as we know it today, the ball was somewhat dropped with the 2nd-generation P38a Range Rover. Since 2012, the l322 Range Rover was usurped by the L405, which built upon the success of the L322. BMW’s ownership of Jaguar Land Rover at the time meant Rover’s long-running V8 was finally put out to pasture after over fifty years of service.
We’ve been researching budget luxury 4WDs at the office a lot lately, and one that takes my fancy the most is an early Range Rover L322. So, I thought I would compile my research, and put it together as a Range Rover L322 Buyer’s Guide.
The L322 Range Rover was a massive step forward in terms of luxury, technology and refinement. The flipside of that though, is that it’s a very complex vehicle overall, which is wholly dependant on electronics working in unison with the mechanics. There’s much more to go wrong in this than most of its contemporaries.
Back in their heyday, early L322 Range Rovers were going for up to $160,000. Nowadays, they can be had for a song, between 10-20 thousand dollars. In terms of pure value for money, few vehicles come within a bull’s roar. Most live sheltered, easy lives, but are they a good idea to buy? We take a look at the L322 bargain bin: 2002-2006 models. BMW spent well over $1 billion in the development of the L322, and seeing as they can be had for $20,000 or less these days, does it make sense?
ENGINES
BMW oversaw a majority of the development of the L322 Range Rover initially, so lots of things under the skin were developed out of Bavaria.
Petrol-powered Range Rovers originally had BMW’s M62TUB44 under the bonnet: a 4.4 litre V8 that makes a very tidy 210kW @ 5,400rpm, and 440Nm @ 3,600. Sure, the Rangie isn’t light (2.5 tonnes), but the all-aluminium motor will push the big unit from stopped to 100km/h in 8.9 seconds. Fuel consumption sits around the 15-16 litres per hundred kilometres.
If you opt for diesel power, it’s BMW’s M57D30. It’s a three-litre, six-cylinder turbodiesel, making 130 kW at 4,000rpm and 390Nm @ 1,750-3,000rpm. It’s mated up to a GM 5L40-E, five-speed automatic gearbox. Acceleration is much more sedate, 12.9 seconds to the 100km/h sprint, but fuel usage sits around 12 litres per hundred kays on average.
Both units run a troublesome five-speed automatic gearbox, Torsen centre diff and full-time 4WD. There’s a two-speed transfer case for off-road work, as well has a gamut of electronic aids.
SUSPENSION
Since the last of the Classic Range Rover, airbags had long replaced the coil springs for suspension. These have a love or hate relationship with Australia. They are loved for the smoothness of the ride afforded and ability to change ride height and ground clearance (even levelling loads and ball weights), but loathed for their overall complexity compared to a twisted up piece of steel. Bags can let go, and compressors get tired, something that owners just have to accept.
KNOWN PROBLEMS
By far, the single biggest problem with the early L322 Range Rover is the gearbox. The petrol powered ZF 5HP24 gearbox would probably be regarded as being very problematic, if it wasn’t for the GM 5L40-E. It’s a transmission so bad, it’s pretty much viewed as a service item by owners. I’m not going to lie through my teeth and tell you I know exactly how an automatic gearbox works, but it’s safe to say that these gearboxes are happy to throw in the towel somewhere above the 100,000-kilometre mark. It’s not rated to the torque output of the engine, and simply wears out. The ZF gearbox behind the V8 model isn’t as bad, but is far from good.
Both gearboxes were sent out with a ‘sealed for life’ sticker on them. Problem being, that ‘life’ isn’t terribly long. The gearboxes are serviceable with filters and correct fluid, which should help the short lifespan.
Because of it’s nature, the air suspension can give problems: air bags can leak, and the compressors can expire slowly and noisily. Your other nemesis with a vehicle like this is the electrics. There can be lots of niggling little problems, which vary from cheap and easy to expensive experts to repair. Those handy enough with a multimeter and spare time should be able to mitigate most big ticket repairs. Our tip: check that water isn’t getting into the rear fuse box, which can cause no end of problems.
Another major problem is the front driveshaft on these units going out of alignment, because of no flex joint or uni joint. This was recalled by Land Rover, so the problem should be taken care of.
The interior on these cars is very impressive. Comfortable leather seats, acres of space, and awesome visibility. Older models can be let down by tarnished plastics, or damaged leather. But otherwise, it’s a genuinely nice place to spend time, ergonomically and aesthetically.
RANGE ROVER L322 BUYER’S GUIDE – WHAT TO LOOK FOR
- Check that the air suspension runs through the different ride heights without issue, paying attention to any undue noises from the bags or compressor.
- Just about everything in these is electrically controlled, so make sure it all works how it should. Budget time and money for anything that doesn’t.
- Check for engine leaks, and the condition of coolant and oil. Radiator expansion tanks can let go, look for tell-tale white streaks of coolant.
- Check the gearbox operates smoothly and shifts cleanly. If it doesn’t, it could indicate a big repair bill in the not-too-distant future. Ensure it has been serviced at some stage, as well.
- Check that low range engages and drives, and Hill Descent Control works.
- Rust isn’t generally a problem with these cars (aluminium panels), but look under the wheel arches and the rear tailgate.
- In our books, the most important thing you can check is the service history. Look for a complete one, done by either Land Rover dealerships or specialists. Old Jimbo’s local garage probably won’t cut it, unfortunately; these vehicles need fairly specific knowledge and skills to remain properly maintained.
- Pixel displays on the dashboard are notorious for letting go after a few years. DIYers can fix this for cheap, or expect to pay a fair bit of labour for somebody else.
- M62 V8s can leak a lot of oil from a dodgy valve cover gasket, and the diesel engine might need a replacement turbo. Check if it’s making excessive noises. Otherwise, they seem to be pretty strong engines. If only the gearboxes were okay …
THE GOOD
Immense comfort, space and refinement, especially for the money you’re spending. They still look quite sharp, and are great off-road.
THE BAD
Unless you’re willing to get your hands dirty, repair and maintenance costs can be high.
THE UGLY
Early model gearbox problems vary from temperamental to terrifying, and can quickly empty a bank account.
OUR VERDICT
It’s intoxicating amount of car for your money, but don’t be fooled into thinking it will be cheap. It’s a roll of the dice, with solid risks and rewards on offer.
9 comments
Sam can you provide bit of the research you did into the facts you quote so people can judge what the risks are;
Airbags can let go,
Compressors get tired
Similarly “air suspension can give problems: air bags can leak, and the compressors can expire slowly and noisily”
I hear the words “can” far too often but this is never backed up by any actual facts or figures.
So many times on these sites mention is made that the air bags can burst, but there is no hard evidence to support this. I could say springs can break which is also true (and it did happen to me once).
So what is the numbers of failures that have happened and why did it happen since malfunction is totally different to mis-use?
Hi Craig,
Thanks for the note. Unfortunately, we don’t have the resources to go out and survey a big field of L322 Range Rover owners in person. It’s a pretty hard thing to statistically quantify. The way I built this article up was based on internet research, and compiling trends depending on what users are posting on enthusiast forums. Safe to say, there is quite a few cases of airbags letting go, mostly due to getting old. Not ‘bursting’, rubber seems to get cracked and brittle, and there is an internal seal that is also a culprit. These are the sorts of things that people should be aware of when looking at a ~10 year old vehicle with airbag suspension.
Do you own a vehicle on airbags?
Hi everyone! Quick comment about the automatic transmission. My parents’ 2003 diesel had the auto let go at just over 200,000 Kms in 2015. It had been serviced every 50,000 km with new filters and oil, including about 3 months before it gave up. There were very few warning signs – the oil was clean at the last service and it was driving fine.
I drove it a few weeks earlier and the only thing I kind of noticed was that the lock up clutch felt like it was slipping a bit and was disengaging too quickly. A hint of load and the revs flared. But having not driven it for months figured it was just me comparing it to my new(er) car with a much tighter auto… Anyway dad was driving to work one morning and made it about half way with no trouble. Stopped at a red light then went to take off and found no drive and flaring revs like it was in neutral – nearly rolled into the car behind him. Game over.
About $7,000 for a new gearbox. The auto specialist (A&B automatics in Dandenong, Vic – recommended by Land Rover and we found them great) said we did better than most people for so many Kms before failure. The lock up clutch had worn out due to the higher engine torque than the box is rated for and the clutch ‘dust’ in the oil clogged up the rest of the gearbox and killed it. Bummer…
Long story short, if you’re looking at buying one of these and it has NOT had a transmission replacement keep a lazy $10,000 in the bank for when it happens. There is no if – the transmission is going to fail. Probably sooner if you tow with it too.
These are an amazing vehicle both on and off road, and other than the transmission the parents’ has been pretty trouble free other than little niggles here and there. Nothing major though.
Happy buying 🙂
I own a L322 TD6. Great car when all is going well, my fuel useage is around 10l/100km country. Car sits on the road brilliantly, and acceleration isn’t bad for a vehicle nudging 3 tonne. I agree with pretty much all if the comments in the article, air suspension rubber bags perish after 8 – 10 years. One let go with a loud bang in Lightning ridge when my daughter sat in the car. My gearbox dies in the first year I owned the car – 5k later it’s ok. The trans rebuilder recommended the box be serviced every 40 – 50k using synthetic oil, and the torque converter changed after 100k to save it wiping out the box. Buying tyres can be a problem, the original goodyears are rubbish, but we are now getting a great run from General grabbers. Hard to get a tyre that size and load rating. The best investment I made was Hawkeye diagnostics which I carry in the vehicle. A cd of the shop manual is used a lot. If you’re not handy around a care, and your backup mechanic hasn’t got an open mind, best you walk right past a rangie. That said. we love ours, it’s comfortable(at least in the front, back seat a little harsh), and you get a lot of car for your money. I have replaced the front suspension, the youtube guides are fantastic, and had some niggling electrical problems. Check the service history – I like the independents better than dealer. Mine has been to a dealer once in the 6 years I’ve owned it. At least our dealer is country and doesn’t rippoff even though he is over 200k’s away. Car now done 245k, minor jam in ignition switch at moment
Often wonder whether I will buy another rangie after L322. All issues previously noted won’t be determinant, probably buy a dual cab ute that I can get a decent Bullbar and snorkel for, or a disco 4 for same reason. If I could get a snorkel, would happily take to Cape York, just make sure RACV total care is taken! Parts are reasonably priced for servicing, and mine is on original injectors – try that in a v8 cruiser!! (only $350 each if you have to). Only fuel issue has been a $100 lift pump that took 20 mins on side of the road to change. This is my 4th Rangie – think I caught that Pommy disease. {If you’ve got a bad back, there’s nothing like the seats, especially my old P38 Rangie.
As a an ex-tyre fitter I can contribute that air springs, beit Grand Cherokee, Range Rover or Discovery, are a constant reminder of how fragile these components are. We’re forever having it drilled through our heads in our profession that if you don’t raise the suspension to highest setting before jacking the vehicle, we can wear the costs for ‘tearing’ damage.
I’ve personally never seen this, as I’ve always been diligent in my processes but it’s a notorious bit of fact amongst us industry peers that they’re not robust & it can take very little to damage them.
Any chance of a comparative article with other luxury suv’s of the same vintage? BMW X5, Mercedes ML etc. p.s. great article.
I suppose one has to agree the rangie is a very nice 4×4 but do we really need to play around with unrealiable horrendously expensive trucks when we have the king of the road readily available all over Oz that is of course the landcruiser I have owned 3 over my life and still have a 100 series v eight a great car my 1st one an 80 series now owned by no 2 son has just turned over 460 k and does not use any oil between changes play around with the fancy one fellas if you must but the landcruisers have nothing to prove they set the standard by all of the others are measured that completes my humble rant safe travels, peter
Owning Land Rovers is some kind od disease and takes a shock to the system to get over it. I’ve owned two ranges a classic and a p38 also one disco 1. You have to own a Hawkeye diagnostic unit for your own sanity because you will have to reset fault codes that is a given. Airbags, compressor and suspension valve block will go at some stage knowledge of the system is invaluable if you want your wallet in tact. The L322 is still problematic albeit a little better. Having said that you will never ride in anything more comfortable and quiet, oops be careful that addiction is coming back…
Even with my knowledge and dyi, it was still costing me over a $1000/ service and repairs and that’s why I now own a 150 series Prado $150/ service and none of the headaches .