We’ve seen some massive rain events across Central Australia recently, with more than 10 inches falling in some parts. While the desert in bloom is a sight to behold, it’s wreaked havoc on our track networks. The latest word from the rangers is that while some of the big names like Witjira and Munga-Thirri (Simpson Desert) are technically open, access is a massive headache. If you were planning a trans-continental crossing, you might need to rethink your route because the South Australian and Queensland sides aren’t exactly talking to each other right now due to the water.
Witjira National Park is open, but here’s the catch: you can’t get there from within South Australia. The Mt Dare road is currently copping a hiding from the rain, meaning the only way in is via Finke in the Northern Territory. If you do make it in, keep a sharp eye out for washouts and heavy machinery. The crews are out there trying to patch things up, so give ’em plenty of room to work. Purni Bore and Dalhousie are accessible once you’re in, but don’t expect a smooth run.
The Simpson and the big wet
Munga-Thirri is in a similar boat. It’s open, but there’s no pushing through to Queensland. The eastern section of the desert is still holding a lot of water, and the QLD side remains shut tight. It’s a timely reminder that even the driest places on earth can turn into inland seas overnight. If you’re heading into the sandy stuff, caution is the name of the game. We’re hearing reports of vehicles copping electrical faults from trying to nose through ponded water, stay on the high ground and don’t risk a drowned ECU for the sake of a deadline.
Down south, things are even tighter. Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre and the associated Public Access Routes (PARs) like Halligan Bay and Level Post Bay are completely closed. The water damage to these tracks is extensive, and they’ll need some serious time to dry out before the graders can even think about getting in there. It’s a similar story for Innamincka and Coongie Lakes, both are currently shut due to flooding. If you had your heart set on a Cooper Creek camp, you’ll have to pull up stumps elsewhere for now.
Hidden dangers and nasty bugs
It’s not just the mud we have to worry about this time around. The rangers have issued a fairly grim warning regarding feral pigs in the Innamincka and Coongie areas. Brucellosis has been detected, which is nasty gear that can jump to humans and dogs. On top of that, Japanese Encephalitis is doing the rounds, spread by the mossies that have exploded in numbers thanks to all the standing water. If you’re heading north, bring the heavy-duty repellent, cover up, and make sure your flyscreens are actually doing their job.
Safety in these conditions is paramount. The outback heat is still hitting the high 40s in spots, and if you get bogged in the wet clay, you’re in for a long day. The old rule stands: never leave your vehicle if you get stuck. Ensure you’ve got a satellite phone or an EPIRB, because when the tracks are this messy, help isn’t just around the corner. We also need to be mindful of the 40km/h speed limit within the parks, not just for the fines, but because a washout at 80km/h will end your trip pretty quickly.
Gear up and be self-sufficient
The golden rule for this season is self-sufficiency. Don’t go counting on local supplies for everything. You need to be carrying your own firewood, plenty of drinking water, and enough food to last if a track cuts off behind you. The PARs are unformed dirt tracks and they’re designed for high-clearance 4X4s only, leave the highway tyres and the heavy caravans at home for this one. They’re just not suited for the rutted, sandy, and potentially boggy conditions we’re seeing.
Before you point the bullbar to the centre, check the latest bulletins. Things are changing daily as the water moves through the system. Reach out to the Pink Roadhouse or Mt Dare Hotel for the latest ground-truth, those legends live and breathe these conditions and will tell you straight if a track is worth the risk. It’s a wild year to be in the desert, and while the challenges are plenty, there’s nothing quite like seeing the red centre go green, just make sure you’re prepared for the mess that comes with it.
